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Nov 6, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
all killer. I wear about a 8.5/9 in 5.10 anasazis.

What size are you going with for tenaya? you seem to have a simialr foot size so figured id ask since ive no chance to try these on anywhere out here.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Nov 6, 2012
Rennie Putnam wrote:
Which of these four shoes would be best for long trad routes and technical crack climbing?


The Masai is your shoe. See my review above for more details. They're awesome, especially for long trad climbs.

The Ra is probably the closest to the Pontas as far as I can tell. Admittedly, I've never climbed in the Pontas but have checked them out. The Ra is a moderately stiff, mid-level downturn, velcro shoe, with a slight bevel under the toe to increase grabbing power. Pretty rockin' shoe.
Christopher Barlow
Joined Dec 29, 2006
534 points
Nov 6, 2012
Me and Spearhead
I had a pair of Tenayas years and years ago that I picked up from the Barrabes website.
Overall it was a decent shoe (I don't think they make that model anymore) fit was similar to an old Anasazi velcro. Nothing bad to say about em just didn't fit as well as other shoes, same reason I don't wear 5.10's.
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
141 points
Nov 6, 2012
Which way again?
9s are comfortable to sloppy in old anasazi's (I don't play the Onyxx BS, still rocking resole pairs and some new Blancos as well), I usually use 8.5s which are crammed but precise as hell on hard stuff.

Tried on the laceup Tenayas in both sizes, both were WAY more comfortable than my V2 Blancos, 8.5s so nice almost didn't try on 9s, depending on stretch I could see those being a favorite all-day shoe.

Will post up after I shell out. Probably trying the RAs. Thx for the info everyone.
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Nov 29, 2012
Which way again?
Been working waaaaaay too much, haven't had time to check out the tenayas yet.

Bump for anyone to post up who's tried them....
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Nov 30, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
I keep telling myself im going to buy a pair just havent got to it yet. Not being able to try them on anywhere has been kinda deterring me. Really dont feel like buying the wrong size and having to deal with returns and exchanges. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Nov 30, 2012
slopey
+1 for fitting like a sock and being an extremely well made shoe. If any of you are ever in Chattanooga visit Four Bridges Outdoors and try some on, they're the only retailer I know of any where close Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
Nov 30, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
Its either an 8.5 or a 9. I just need to get it right the first time! superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Dec 2, 2012
Plumbers Crack
Yo smarty pants or anyone in Vegas check out these shoes at Desert Rock Sports! I might even help you put them on Matt Kuehl
From red rock
Joined Nov 29, 2010
1,384 points
Dec 2, 2012
Which way again?
Only if you wear your special outfit I like so much! Stubble, button up shortsleeve, name brand prodealed ports/shants, etc.

Working so much it'll be weeks, maybe a month before I get to climb again. When I get back I'll pop in and buy you a beer, it sucks not getting to catch up with anyone lately. Pays well though, looking forward to my next vacation!
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jan 24, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
now available on backcountry. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 24, 2013
I'm looking for an all day trad shoe. What size should I look at, street size +/-? Is the Masai pretty stiff??? GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 30, 2013
things are looking up
Hey Sweagan - the Masai is pretty stiff and would be a good choice. Its has a relatively narrow and low volume fit. I wear a size that is pretty similar to 5.10 mocs if that helps. The Ra is another good option - i like the velcro for stretching the toes at belays (the Ra also fits my foot shape a little better) Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Jan 30, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
I've been using the Ra's for a few months now and I absolutely love them! I had been using the Muira's for several years but the Ra's are more comfortable and outperform the Muira's. I use them for everything from long multipitch routes to single pitch projects. Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Joined Feb 26, 2006
1,040 points
Jan 30, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
I bought some Tatankas. Will let know how they go. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 30, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
How do you guys like the heel in these? What would you compare them to? I find that most shoes fit me very tight on the Achilles and annoyingly loose and baggy everywhere else around my heel. I'm particularly interested in the Masai. Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
918 points
Jan 30, 2013
things are looking up
Hey Larry, the heels are relatively low volume, meaning they don't have to cut back in so aggressively at the top, so they might be a good fit. As long as your foot isn't really wide the Masai would probably work well. Some of the online retailers will exchange until you are happy. I searched for the Masai on backcountry and found them. The BC folks have always taken good care of me with exchanges and such. But if a local dealer has them already, that would be even better. Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Jan 30, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Thanks, Adam. Anyone know of any retailers in the northeast with these or who might have them come spring? I'd really like to try them on. Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
918 points
Jan 30, 2013
Adam Sanders wrote:
Hey Sweagan - the Masai is pretty stiff and would be a good choice. Its has a relatively narrow and low volume fit. I wear a size that is pretty similar to 5.10 mocs if that helps. The Ra is another good option - i like the velcro for stretching the toes at belays (the Ra also fits my foot shape a little better)



I only use my mocs for indian creek, so they are my street shoe size. Is that what you would suggest? Is there sizing pretty close to other Five Ten shoes? I have a 13 in the Galileo and I wouldn't want to climb multiple pitches in them, besides using them for jamming my toes in thin cracks. Hopefully there is a shop in Portland that has them in my size(s) since I'll be there next week.
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 30, 2013
things are looking up
My mocs are for the creek, too, but definitely tighter than average creek-shoes. I haven't owned many 5.10s, so I can't speak about the conversion too well. I have a 9.5 Ra that is a good "long-but-still-kinda-hard-route" type comfort/performance fit, and my Sportiva approach shoes are 11. If i wanted super comfort, I could go to a 10, but I prefer a tighter shoe. (for reference, my foot will physically fit into an 8) Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Jan 31, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
I wear a a 9 in 5.10 anazasi and in the moc.

I got the masai's in a 9 and the fit is good imo. tight but not painful with some break-in will be perfect.

I went with an 8.5 in the tatankas.

street shoe is a 10.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Mar 2, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
Adam Sanders wrote:
Hey Larry, the heels are relatively low volume, meaning they don't have to cut back in so aggressively at the top, so they might be a good fit. As long as your foot isn't really wide the Masai would probably work well. Some of the online retailers will exchange until you are happy. I searched for the Masai on backcountry and found them. The BC folks have always taken good care of me with exchanges and such. But if a local dealer has them already, that would be even better.


Adam and All Others,
I been climbing since about 5yrs old 7yrs on my 1st lead(5.4ish) the top pitch, with father(He told me to do it, hooked to leadind know)... He was a 5.12-5.13 Climber, till he fell 66ft landed on concrete(working) on my 11th B-Day...I didn't climb for awhile, started back in late teens(had to lead 5 pitches to top), father handicaped and friend never climbed...anyway I did mostly Friction/Trad and last year I started Climbing Vertical-Sport/Trad/Top Roping and move from Climbing 5.4-5.7,even one 5.9 and my 1st Vertical lead(5.6ish)...But I couldn't step it up(harder climbs) more because of kind of climbing shoes (2 Pairs Boreal Equonix(10.5) and 5.10 coyotes (11)... both sucked at Vertical Climbing... I'm trying to find the Best Shoes to Up my Vertical-Sport,Trad,Face Climbing, also want New C.Shoes to be comfortable enough to do all day/multi-pitch Vertical??? I been reaseaching for months and Bought pair of 5.10 anasazi V2(Blanco)10.5, took awhile to get in them and toes cramped to point of toe nuckles popping out and heel was Super tight around ankle but could probably fit a golf ball in heel pocket!!! I wear 10.5 street shoes and measure 10.5 inches long foot, with Wide feet at pinkey toe...I narrow down to a couple shoes to help me climb Harder Vertical(Shoes that Edges, Sears/sticks,Toes in pockets and is bearable in Comfort!!! I' looking at 1 of the 4 Tenya(widest, plus features above) and the Mad Rock Flash? If anyone can help me in the search for the right shoe for my situation, please help...Thanks, Everone for you time and coments!!! Best wishhes and climbing! Pic of me Struggling to climb a 5.10 in non-vertical shoes! my email is adrenaline.guy@hotmail.com
Can't get shoe to stick to the dime or smear 5.10....
Can't get shoe to stick to the dime or smear 5.10...need a pair Vertical Shoe???
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Administrator
Mar 3, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Jason, Based on those criteria, I would recommend the Tenaya Ra. Its wider than the Masai, but still perfect for multi-pitch trad climbing. They're a great "all-around" shoe, but still perfectly capable of edging on really tiny holds. I've worn mine all day while trad climbing with very little discomfort. Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
16,864 points
Mar 3, 2013
Which way again?
Impressive that you were able to understand all that, much less reply. Respek. Got Tenayas ordered, will post up a review when I'm good and drunk, guaranteed orneryness. Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Mar 3, 2013
Taylor Ogden wrote:
Any thoughts on how they fit compared to other shoes/brands? I'm specifically interested in how the Ra's compare to Scarpa Vapor V's, if you have used that shoe.

The Ras are softer and a bit more flexible than the Vapors. However, I don't think this hinders their edging ability, and I feel it makes them a bit more versatile than the Vapor. The Vapor has less give when you dorsiflex your foot, and in my experience that inhibits their ability to smear and to function on rock that is off vertical. The Vapor is more supportive because it "locks" your foot in and that makes it slightly better at edging than the Ra, but not by much. The Ra - for my foot anyway - fits a bit wider, as well.
Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
963 points


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