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Jan 24, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
now available on backcountry. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 24, 2013
I'm looking for an all day trad shoe. What size should I look at, street size +/-? Is the Masai pretty stiff??? GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 30, 2013
things are looking up
Hey Sweagan - the Masai is pretty stiff and would be a good choice. Its has a relatively narrow and low volume fit. I wear a size that is pretty similar to 5.10 mocs if that helps. The Ra is another good option - i like the velcro for stretching the toes at belays (the Ra also fits my foot shape a little better) Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Jan 30, 2013
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
I've been using the Ra's for a few months now and I absolutely love them! I had been using the Muira's for several years but the Ra's are more comfortable and outperform the Muira's. I use them for everything from long multipitch routes to single pitch projects. Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
Joined Feb 26, 2006
1,040 points
Jan 30, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
I bought some Tatankas. Will let know how they go. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 30, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
How do you guys like the heel in these? What would you compare them to? I find that most shoes fit me very tight on the Achilles and annoyingly loose and baggy everywhere else around my heel. I'm particularly interested in the Masai. Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
921 points
Jan 30, 2013
things are looking up
Hey Larry, the heels are relatively low volume, meaning they don't have to cut back in so aggressively at the top, so they might be a good fit. As long as your foot isn't really wide the Masai would probably work well. Some of the online retailers will exchange until you are happy. I searched for the Masai on backcountry and found them. The BC folks have always taken good care of me with exchanges and such. But if a local dealer has them already, that would be even better. Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Jan 30, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Thanks, Adam. Anyone know of any retailers in the northeast with these or who might have them come spring? I'd really like to try them on. Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
921 points
Jan 30, 2013
Adam Sanders wrote:
Hey Sweagan - the Masai is pretty stiff and would be a good choice. Its has a relatively narrow and low volume fit. I wear a size that is pretty similar to 5.10 mocs if that helps. The Ra is another good option - i like the velcro for stretching the toes at belays (the Ra also fits my foot shape a little better)



I only use my mocs for indian creek, so they are my street shoe size. Is that what you would suggest? Is there sizing pretty close to other Five Ten shoes? I have a 13 in the Galileo and I wouldn't want to climb multiple pitches in them, besides using them for jamming my toes in thin cracks. Hopefully there is a shop in Portland that has them in my size(s) since I'll be there next week.
GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jan 30, 2013
things are looking up
My mocs are for the creek, too, but definitely tighter than average creek-shoes. I haven't owned many 5.10s, so I can't speak about the conversion too well. I have a 9.5 Ra that is a good "long-but-still-kinda-hard-route" type comfort/performance fit, and my Sportiva approach shoes are 11. If i wanted super comfort, I could go to a 10, but I prefer a tighter shoe. (for reference, my foot will physically fit into an 8) Adam Sanders
From Erie, CO
Joined Nov 22, 2008
149 points
Jan 31, 2013
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
I wear a a 9 in 5.10 anazasi and in the moc.

I got the masai's in a 9 and the fit is good imo. tight but not painful with some break-in will be perfect.

I went with an 8.5 in the tatankas.

street shoe is a 10.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Mar 2, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
Adam Sanders wrote:
Hey Larry, the heels are relatively low volume, meaning they don't have to cut back in so aggressively at the top, so they might be a good fit. As long as your foot isn't really wide the Masai would probably work well. Some of the online retailers will exchange until you are happy. I searched for the Masai on backcountry and found them. The BC folks have always taken good care of me with exchanges and such. But if a local dealer has them already, that would be even better.


Adam and All Others,
I been climbing since about 5yrs old 7yrs on my 1st lead(5.4ish) the top pitch, with father(He told me to do it, hooked to leadind know)... He was a 5.12-5.13 Climber, till he fell 66ft landed on concrete(working) on my 11th B-Day...I didn't climb for awhile, started back in late teens(had to lead 5 pitches to top), father handicaped and friend never climbed...anyway I did mostly Friction/Trad and last year I started Climbing Vertical-Sport/Trad/Top Roping and move from Climbing 5.4-5.7,even one 5.9 and my 1st Vertical lead(5.6ish)...But I couldn't step it up(harder climbs) more because of kind of climbing shoes (2 Pairs Boreal Equonix(10.5) and 5.10 coyotes (11)... both sucked at Vertical Climbing... I'm trying to find the Best Shoes to Up my Vertical-Sport,Trad,Face Climbing, also want New C.Shoes to be comfortable enough to do all day/multi-pitch Vertical??? I been reaseaching for months and Bought pair of 5.10 anasazi V2(Blanco)10.5, took awhile to get in them and toes cramped to point of toe nuckles popping out and heel was Super tight around ankle but could probably fit a golf ball in heel pocket!!! I wear 10.5 street shoes and measure 10.5 inches long foot, with Wide feet at pinkey toe...I narrow down to a couple shoes to help me climb Harder Vertical(Shoes that Edges, Sears/sticks,Toes in pockets and is bearable in Comfort!!! I' looking at 1 of the 4 Tenya(widest, plus features above) and the Mad Rock Flash? If anyone can help me in the search for the right shoe for my situation, please help...Thanks, Everone for you time and coments!!! Best wishhes and climbing! Pic of me Struggling to climb a 5.10 in non-vertical shoes! my email is adrenaline.guy@hotmail.com
Can't get shoe to stick to the dime or smear 5.10....
Can't get shoe to stick to the dime or smear 5.10...need a pair Vertical Shoe???
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Administrator
Mar 3, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Jason, Based on those criteria, I would recommend the Tenaya Ra. Its wider than the Masai, but still perfect for multi-pitch trad climbing. They're a great "all-around" shoe, but still perfectly capable of edging on really tiny holds. I've worn mine all day while trad climbing with very little discomfort. Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,114 points
Mar 3, 2013
Taylor Ogden wrote:
Any thoughts on how they fit compared to other shoes/brands? I'm specifically interested in how the Ra's compare to Scarpa Vapor V's, if you have used that shoe.

The Ras are softer and a bit more flexible than the Vapors. However, I don't think this hinders their edging ability, and I feel it makes them a bit more versatile than the Vapor. The Vapor has less give when you dorsiflex your foot, and in my experience that inhibits their ability to smear and to function on rock that is off vertical. The Vapor is more supportive because it "locks" your foot in and that makes it slightly better at edging than the Ra, but not by much. The Ra - for my foot anyway - fits a bit wider, as well.
Dana Bartlett
From CT
Joined Nov 18, 2003
963 points
Mar 3, 2013
Dana Bartlett wrote:
Taylor Ogden wrote: Any thoughts on how they fit compared to other shoes/brands? I'm specifically interested in how the Ra's compare to Scarpa Vapor V's, if you have used that shoe. The Ras are softer and a bit more flexible than the Vapors. However, I don't think this hinders their edging ability, and I feel it makes them a bit more versatile than the Vapor. The Vapor has less give when you dorsiflex your foot, and in my experience that inhibits their ability to smear and to function on rock that is off vertical. The Vapor is more supportive because it "locks" your foot in and that makes it slightly better at edging than the Ra, but not by much. The Ra - for my foot anyway - fits a bit wider, as well.


As far as sizing specifically, I wore a Vapor lace-up size 42 screaming tight and a Ra 41.5 at a similar tightness. That said, the Ra is still more comfortable at that size and performs better all around except for really aggressive toeing in - as Dana mentions. Overall, I think the comfort outweighs the minor loss in power as I can use my feet better in less pain.
Christopher Barlow
Joined Dec 29, 2006
534 points
Mar 3, 2013
Can somebody explain the difference between the inti and the ra? They look very similar, is one softer or something? Xan Calonne
From Pasadena, Ca
Joined Mar 25, 2010
19 points
Mar 4, 2013
Me at Linville Gorge!!!
Monomaniac wrote:
Jason, Based on those criteria, I would recommend the Tenaya Ra. Its wider than the Masai, but still perfect for multi-pitch trad climbing. They're a great "all-around" shoe, but still perfectly capable of edging on really tiny holds. I've worn mine all day while trad climbing with very little discomfort.


Thanks so Much Monomanic and other climber's been climbing since I was a boy with father (mostly friction, just starting to progress/get into Vertical) But need to find shoe to help step up beyond a 5.7 in Vertical! I Think 99% of all Climber are the Niceest, Caring and Most Helpful/Thoughtful People I meet/know...We look out for each other, help other...I Love Climbers!!! I once was in a summit climb and hed to tie off(lockin to ancore) my follower and go off safety ancore(at belay sation)and quickly through a rope on my back, climb over to another route and drop a rope to a climber that was leading, didnt had any Pro in and was frozen with sowing machine leg and looking at ground fall...I Rapped down to him and got him hooked in my rope...the only reason in sharing this, is that I what to Thank ALL CLIMBERS, for their Values, Caring, Helping each other! We all Family! By the way I was looking at the Tenaya Amigo (like a liceup Ra), but not for sell in US...I've never own velcro's (how they work in holding feet in place and adjustment to feet for comfort in long climbs/multi-pitch)? Thanks, for any/all help, might help other's in same situation!
Jason Blevins
From Burlington, NC
Joined Apr 24, 2012
132 points
Administrator
Mar 7, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Xan Calonne wrote:
Can somebody explain the difference between the inti and the ra? They look very similar, is one softer or something?


That's a great question, here is what Tenaya's website says:

"Coming from the very best of RA which has cleared some of the hardest routes in world, we have created INTI, a high performance climbing shoe that amazes for its extraordinary response under the foot biomechanical needs in the high difficulty climbs.

To rely on the best attacking angle, to count on the perfect asymmetry, to feel the rock closer or getting the highest force are some of the INTI qualities.

But the most important is “the soul” of the shoe, SXR Dynamics® Technology, a Movement Adjusting System that leads to a better efficiency, precision and comfort."


In my experience the Inti is a bit stiffer than the Ra at the same size, and perhaps slightly lower volume in the toe box. I also think the toe is not quite as pointy, but I'm not sure on that point. I use the Inti for hardcore thin edging. Its the most precise technical edging shoe in my vast arsenal.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,114 points
Administrator
Mar 7, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Big news! I just got word that Tenayas are now available for purchase at Bentgate in Golden, CO! If you're on the Frontrange, this is your big chance to try them in person.

Even better news, Tenaya is hosting two shoe demos on the Front Range. The first will be at the Boulder Rock Club on Wednesday 3/13, at 5pm, and the second at Miramont in Fort Collins on Thursday 4/18 at 5pm.
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,114 points
Mar 7, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I contacted trango thru their webpage with some general questions on the masai and sizing. I had a nice exchange going with Adam (he's the guy in the videos describing the shoes on their website) about what shoes i have right now and what size i wear in them, what i don't like about them, etc... If you have specific questions, i wouldn't hesitate to contact them, they were very helpful.

I ended up ordering a pair of Masai's, I'm expecting them to arrive next week, I'll post up my thoughts after i get some miles on them.
Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
921 points
Administrator
Mar 12, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Tomorrow night! Get psyched!

Wednesday March 13th 5-9pm t the BRC!
Wednesday March 13th 5-9pm t the BRC!
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,114 points
Apr 7, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
I promised a review on the masai too, but haven't been able to climb in the pair i got yet. I've got some Achilles heel bursitis going on and can't even really get the shoes on. The toebox is low volume, an reminds me of the evovl Pontas: Flat, Narrow and pointed. The heel is low up the back, lower on the Achilles than any other shoe I own. The arch is high, possibly too high as it makes the shoe sag under my heel (and hit precisely where my bursitis is) Larry S
From Easton, Pennsylvania
Joined May 28, 2010
921 points
Administrator
Apr 10, 2013
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Shoe Demo Thursday, April 18 in Fort Collins! Tell your friends!

Shoe Demo!
Shoe Demo!
Monomaniac
From Morrison, CO
Joined Oct 26, 2006
17,114 points
Apr 30, 2013
Killing In The Name Of wrote:
I tend to be verbose, so here's a big surprise to you, Gentle Reader. Got the Ras. They are Excellent. Like a non-painful Anasazi Velcro, precise like a Miura, totally happy with the sticky Vibram used, smeared on black glass on some very slick varnish with ease. Have tested them out on half a dozen techy, slick, footwork-intensive climbs in Red Rock. They perform well and feel even better. My new favorite shoe.



What size did you get them?? I'm a 42 in the anasazi velcro, should I get a 42 Ra's too?
Nahuel
Joined Apr 30, 2013
1 points
Apr 30, 2013
I went deep water soloing in Thailand with my Tatankas and they recovered perfectly. I think they may even fit better now (could just be in my head). I love them on the southern sandstone. I really like this shoe for vertical sport routes. I wear a full size bigger in the Tatankas 42 1/2 than my Miuras 41 1/2. This shoe has proven it's durability to me and i would recommend trying them out. Greg Berry
Joined Aug 8, 2010
9 points


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