Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
Start up the steep left side of a buttress on the left side of an alcove. Said alcove is then about 40 yards from the super-easy access to the top. This is a fun route. Some easy step up moves, and then a dyno opportunity from small but positive crimpers to the ledge. To truly climb the route, do not go up the left side from here. Instead, move right and follow the bolts directly up the face. Another cool dynamic move opportunity to a left-hand ledge about 10 feet below the bolts.
Note, over the years, this route has become quite polished in places, especially at the start.
If you are too short to reach the high flake (which cannot be seen from the toehold), this is easily a 5.10. To reach the upper part, climb left or right to the big ledge, then try the bolted route, or climb left which allows 5.7/5.8 climbers to enjoy the rest of the route.
Not sustained, but fun for the 2 crux moves, 1 to get to the ledge, the other to get off of the ledge by going right and up the face. I'm not quite 6' tall and found the cruxes (cruci?) to be fairly rated at 9+/10a. These moves were noticeably harder for me than the crux of braincloud, so using braincloud (5.9) as a benchmark, I think this one is graded about right. My climbing partner, who is about 6'2 and is very solid at 5.8, couldn't get the first crux after many tries.
By Kevin Wood May 24, 2008 rating: 5.10c6b20VIIE2 5b
Not a 5.9 in my book, but everyone is different. The crimpers at the crux are real small. The last bolt was almost falling completely out, hand tightened but might need some attention.
By David Bayendor From: Denver, CO May 20, 2009 rating: 5.106b20VII-E2 5b
If you are 5' 5", like me, then the tiny crimps you need to get the moves are about five inches out of reach (unless you have a serious ape index).
Also, the holds are very greasy, and could probably do with some clean up. Because of this, I agree with other comments that this feels a lot harder than 5.9, maybe 5.10.
I climbed up the off width to the left, basically as a free-solo instead.
Clipping the first high bolt is just balancy enough that I found it comforting to put a couple opposing small stoppers in the thin horizontal crack at the first ledge. A groundfall from there has an ugly landing zone. At 5'10", the crux reaches/clips were barely within reach for me after tiptoeing as high as possible. Nice finish.