Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: D. Davis, S. Mish, T. Toula 1986
Page Views: 2,929 total · 14/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Feb 7, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


15 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

One of the best pitches I've climbed in Sedona, with a 15 minute mostly level approach. Great to do if you don't have much time.

Splitter thin hands and fingers for 100 ft. It starts with a commiting traverse to get into the crack and it doesn't give up until you're on the top. Very well protected most of the way, but it's tricky to protect the start. Personally I thought the green alien under the knocker block was good for a fall, but I was glad not to test it. Some loose rock, but it just adds to the flavor.

Rap off a slung block on the summit with 1 60m rope.

Location Suggest change

Park at the Margs Draw parking and follow the trail out of the parking lot. At the 4-way intersection with the sign, go left on the main trail (tward Schnebley Hill road). Look for the 100 ft. spire/cluster of rocks below Snoopy on the right. The trail will cross a fairly large wash which passes under the spire on the right. Follow this wash to the base of the spire, then scramble around to the north face and the obvious splitter crack.

Protection Suggest change

1 blue Alien, 1 green Alien (for start), 2 yellow Alien,
4-5 #0.5 Camalots, 4-5 #0.75 Camalots, 3 #1 Camalots.
Nuts optional.
Nothing bigger than #1 Camalot.

Photos

loading