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Golder Dome
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Ten Years After T 

Ten Years After 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Kerry, Charlie Rollins 1988
Season: sept.-may
Page Views: 1,177
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Oct 3, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Charles Vernon scoping out his options on the firs...

Description 

This is a really fun route with three pitches of absorbing face climbing, topped off by a nice crack (particularly by Southern Arizona standards!) on the fourth pitch. The climbing is technical and hard to read; there is a lot of micro-route-finding and mini-traversing, and some mild spice. Pitch 2 in particular is a gem. Kerry's description and topo are both very good, so I see no need to give a blow-by-blow account here.

[Edit, after a second trip up]: I would only say that on pitch one, after the crux, the climbing seems pretty contrived, as you can just go up the moderate gear-protected corner (shown on the topo) to the belay. The climbing out right may be better but felt almost annoyingly forced.

Location 

The route is located on the left side of Golder Dome, and starts just right of the obvious, left-trending vegetated corner system ("Jungle Cruiser"). Look for the first bolt up and right about 20 feet. A hard 5.10 move past this bolt leads to a ledge--don't go up the corner, but instead move right to find the next bolt.

To descend, we did not do the last 4th class pitch, but instead rappelled from the "pointed flake" that Kerry mentions, which is even with the tree belay at the top of pitch four, but about 30 feet left (if you want to do this option, then there's no need to go to the tree on P4). Here was the only discrepancy that we found in Backcountry Rock Climbing: We rappelled with one rope to a set of bolts not noted in that guide, then with two ropes to the two-bolt anchor atop pitch 2, then with two ropes to the ground.

Protection 

A full set of nuts (include rps), and a single set of cams from tiny to a #3.5 friend will provide sufficient, though not abundant protection. A couple extra hand-sized cams would certainly get used on the last pitch (be sure to save everything from #1.5 friend up for the hand crack on that pitch). Nothing larger than a #2 friend is needed on the first two pitches. Bring about 3 draws--the two 10+ cruxes are both well-protected by bolts.


Photos of Ten Years After Slideshow Add Photo
Charles Vernon about to climb the mini dihedral on pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Charles Vernon about to climb the mini dihedral on...
Charles pulling through the roof handcrack (wait a roof hand crack in the Catalinas???!?!!) Really fun climbing on this pitch
BETA PHOTO: Charles pulling through the roof handcrack (wait a...

Comments on Ten Years After Add Comment
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By Clay Mansfield
Mar 3, 2013

This climb is great. We were prepared to do some choss-bungling, but were pleasantly surprised to find some stellar climbing on mostly bullet rock. The rock at Golder Dome reminded us of the rock at the Reef, very cool. If you have the time, the scramble to the summit is worth it.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 4, 2013

Clay, if I say it's good, it's good. With that said, you should have no qualms about jumping on Humungous Woosey :)
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 4, 2013

Or ***Clingons In The Neutral Zone.
By Clay Mansfield
Mar 4, 2013

Andy and I were gazing longingly at some of those corners on Klingons. Golder Dome is a pretty cool spot all by it's lonesome.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 12, 2013

Bringing some extra webbing and a knife is a good idea out here in the Pusch. We cleaned up all of the old tat on Ten Years, but what we left will be outdated by the time the summer sun is done with it. This climb sports surprisingly solid rock that climbs quite well, it's definitely one of the better backcountry lines that I've been on in the local area.
By Dan W.
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 18, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Stellar rock, amazing moment, and perfect positioning. If you climb the grade this is a must do!