Ten Years After
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Mike Gura doing the powerful start of the route.
Steep, powerful, sustained...but good rests where ya need 'em. Overhangs 20+ feet.
21st century start with an old-school finish. The best sequence is not necessarily easy to find. Perhaps a touch of sandbag at 12a, I'm not sure.
An old Glenn Todd project that he let sit idle for 10 years. Hence the name. Well... it's also a tribute to Alvin Lee. All bolts are stainless.
The right side of the SW face is the steepest part of the crag. The right-most route is Dr. Evil. Ten Years After starts about 10 feet left of Dr. Evil. TYA has several fixed draws.
Bolts, chain anchors and fixed draws. You need 5 draws to get up...1 at the start, 2 up high, 2 for anchors.
Mike trying to clip and me with a loop of slack so...
Mike stops about two feet off the ground after his...
|Comments on Ten Years After
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Jul 30, 2008
Great start and a fun climb with a practically no hands rest in the middle and a not so fun finish above the cool second crux. Would give it three stars if it didn't have the rest or the last ten feet to the chains. Glad to have the rest on the redpoint run today.
Jul 31, 2008
Eric, I actually like the finish. Probably because it reminds me just a bit of Vedauwoo where I started climbing. So it's a (slightly weak) 3 stars for me.
Sep 21, 2009
Well, I apparently missed a nearly hands-free rest, so the redpoint felt much harder than Cres-Sent (didn't really get pumped on Cres-Sent, was pumped out of my mind through the crux on this one). Guess that's what happens when you try to get these things done quickly and without much beta refinement.
Very fun, but Cres-Sent is better. Next weekend I'll try my hand at Delt Melt.
|By Joe Kreidel|
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 2, 2009
A little hold breakage occurred last week on this route. The first good right hand hold after the upper crux (the right most hold on the ledge above the hole, if that makes more sense) broke a little and is not as big any more - maybe a full pad crimp. Still usable, and shouldn't effect the grade, but thought some people might like to know.
Fun route, and except for the good rest, it's all business.
Dec 21, 2009
Ian...you didn't get pumped on Cressent !!?? Loan me your forearms please !
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2011
So much loose gravel on this one... Would be a lot of fun if the rock didn't disintegrate.