Ten Years After 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | JBaker, JShiefman, Dylan Cooper, Oct 2007 |
| Submitted By: | jbak on Oct 8, 2007 |
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Mike Gura doing the powerful start of the route.
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Description Steep, powerful, sustained...but good rests where ya need 'em. Overhangs 20+ feet.
21st century start with an old-school finish. The best sequence is not necessarily easy to find. Perhaps a touch of sandbag at 12a, I'm not sure.
An old Glenn Todd project that he let sit idle for 10 years. Hence the name. Well... it's also a tribute to Alvin Lee. All bolts are stainless.
Location The right side of the SW face is the steepest part of the crag. The right-most route is Dr. Evil. Ten Years After starts about 10 feet left of Dr. Evil. TYA has several fixed draws.
Protection Bolts, chain anchors and fixed draws. You need 5 draws to get up...1 at the start, 2 up high, 2 for anchors.
Mike trying to clip and me with a loop of slack so...
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Mike stops about two feet off the ground after his...
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| Comments on Ten Years After |
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b
| Great start and a fun climb with a practically no hands rest in the middle and a not so fun finish above the cool second crux. Would give it three stars if it didn't have the rest or the last ten feet to the chains. Glad to have the rest on the redpoint run today. |
By jbak
Jul 31, 2008
| Eric, I actually like the finish. Probably because it reminds me just a bit of Vedauwoo where I started climbing. So it's a (slightly weak) 3 stars for me. |
By iancevans
Sep 21, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b
| Well, I apparently missed a nearly hands-free rest, so the redpoint felt much harder than Cres-Sent (didn't really get pumped on Cres-Sent, was pumped out of my mind through the crux on this one). Guess that's what happens when you try to get these things done quickly and without much beta refinement.
Very fun, but Cres-Sent is better. Next weekend I'll try my hand at Delt Melt. |
By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 2, 2009
| A little hold breakage occurred last week on this route. The first good right hand hold after the upper crux (the right most hold on the ledge above the hole, if that makes more sense) broke a little and is not as big any more - maybe a full pad crimp. Still usable, and shouldn't effect the grade, but thought some people might like to know.
Fun route, and except for the good rest, it's all business. |
By jbak
Dec 21, 2009
| Ian...you didn't get pumped on Cressent !!?? Loan me your forearms please ! |
By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.12-
| So much loose gravel on this one... Would be a lot of fun if the rock didn't disintegrate. |
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