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Lower Falls Amphitheatre
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Ten Years After 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Ariza, Kurt Smith, 8/85.
Page Views: 1,567
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Up left of the falls and right of a large, loose alcove is this fine crack climb.
Climb the crack to a two bolt anchor.
Rappel 80".

Protection 

Pro to 2".


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By Linnea Williams
Oct 27, 2008

Yesterday, I saw an entire family skinny dipping in the pool at the base of the falls from this route. Good times.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Oct 12, 2009

Looks like an old aid line. The bulk of this route is made up of what appears to be piton scars (pods) that can be used for bomber finger locks. Two distinct cruxes: one about 20 feet up, the other within 10 feet from the top and everything else is sustained 5.10 climbing with good rests disappearing after second half of climb. Most of the route appears to be vertical.

The top crux is amazing and requires a few one armed pull-ups off of one-finger locks in pods.

Bring small sized offset nuts and a few smaller sized hybrid aliens for pods. You'll thank yourself later.

This is not a give-me 5.10.
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Dec 7, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I had a blue alien disintegrate on me on this route!
By Osprey
From: ...
Feb 21, 2010

The route takes good pro the entire way so long as you have a couple of your smallest pieces for the top. 5.10 climbers of all abilities should be able to have fun on this route!
By JCM
From: Seattle, WA
May 15, 2012

Really nice short finger crack; long moves between juggy finger locks. Great fun. Eats stoppers.