An excellent, basically one-pitch climb located on the South face of Sheep's Nose. Locating the route is straightforward - it is in the massive, right-facing dihedral on the left side of Sheep's Nose as you approach.
P1 - climb straight up the obvious crack in the dihedral, using a few jams, laybacks where necessary, and a couple of opportune face holds. The entire pitch is fairly sustained, but the crux probably comes in the first 25 feet, until you move past the obvious, wide section. The gear placements on this section are more than adequate but not quite as straightforward as it appears from the base - the crack flares to the inside. The upper section protects well with nuts and small cams. We rapped off from a nest of slings at the top of P1 (60m rope was plenty, I suspect you would be fine with a 50m).
P2 continues up the dihedral, and appears to have one hard move before taking an easy ramp to the walk-off.
Standard rack to at least #4 Friend. #5 might add some peace of mind but is not necessary.
Chris following a great lead.
Bo sending the route for a fun lead!
Leading up Ten Years After.
Aaron Quinlisk just enjoyin the ride.
Use a long sling if you place gear in that alcove ...
|By Bo Johnston|
May 22, 2004
Just got back from climbing this excellent route a couple days ago. After getting Lost on "Lost in Space Direct" we rappelled down to find this wonderful route along with Chinook 5.9+*** and Whipporwill 5.8*. Being a Yosemite climber at heart, I found Ten Years to be nostalgic of the Valley's great walls. Great liebacks to underclings and thin face. We did not complete the last pitch either (doesn't seem like many do). Enjoy!
|By Luke Clarke|
Jun 6, 2006
The nest of slings has been recently replaced by state-of-the-art bolts, which make for fine top roping your second on this line or on neighboring Seamis. If you do set up a top rope, take care to make sure the rope does not run near a flake out to the right of the crack near the top of the pitch which is the perfect size for trapping a rope. I speak from experience.
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009
This is a great, fun route, which felt easier than it looked from below.
It is easy to do this route in one pitch if you belay from the top. Stopping at the bolted anchor just feels like a bummer - you want to keep going in this beautiful corner.
|By Pink Thunder|
From: Colorado Springs
Oct 10, 2013
Excellent route, but it was a thrash to get up to it from Lost in Space. The feet are a lot better on this than they look like from the ground. My pal Mike led it and got a bomber #4 in. No real need for a #5, since you just have to make a couple moves and can then get in another bomber piece.