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Ten Sleep Canyon

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Slavery Wall 
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Spirit World, The 
Superratic Pillar 
Temple, The 
Vietnam 
Wall of Denial 
Waterfall Walls, The 
World Domination 

Ten Sleep Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 44.1387, -107.245 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 418,535
Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: richard magill on Apr 28, 2006  with updates from Maitreya Sriram
Forecast:
Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat
Overcast
91° | 52°
Partly Cloudy
71° | 50°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
69° | 47°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
68° | 46°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
62° | 44°
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BETA PHOTO: Ten Sleep Canyon, Wyoming (fourth edition), by Aar...

Description 

Located just East of the town of Ten Sleep, Wyoming (population - less than 300) there are probably more climbers in Ten Sleep canyon on any given day of the Summer than live in this sleepy little Cowboy town. Once a little known backwater, Ten Sleep may now be the premier limestone climbing area in Wyoming.

The area boasts a huge amount of stone and a wide variation in the type of climbing.

There are dozens of mini-crags up and down the canyon offering nearly 1000 routes. Routes range in grade from 5.7 to 5.14. Due to the variety of orientations of walls in the canyon, it is possible to choose great climbing based what time of the day or what time of the year it is.

Leave your trad rack at home, as there are only a handful of not-recommended traditional routes. Bolts are king here and a fistful of 18 quickdraws will get you up even the longest route. A 60 meter rope is generally all you will need for any route in the canyon but always tie a knot in the other end as a safety precaution. Multi-pitch routes are rare but there are a handful of those as well.

Climbers begin to flock to the Canyon beginning Memorial Day weekend and taper off after Labor Day. Although Summer is a great time of the year for camping and climbing, the months before and after the 'season' can be ideal. Chasing the shade in the Summer gives way to chasing the sun any other time of year.

On climbing rest days, bring your fishing pole and buy a license to see if you can catch a meal from the river or either West Tensleep or Meadowlark Lake. There are great opportunities for Mountain Biking and Kayaking also. If you have the time to head into the back Country hike up toward Cloud Peak Wilderness Area for amazing views and fresh mountain air. Take a free tour of the amazing and high tech fish hatchery at Leigh Creek. And please!! Do not bathe or wash your rope at the Splash Pad in the park in the town of Ten Sleep.

The town of Ten Sleep offers several eating establishments and bars but no grocery store. Deer Haven at the top of the Canyon offers meals, private camp sites and has cabins for rent. Head East to Buffalo or West to Worland to stock or restock your supplies.

The most recent edition of the Ten Sleep Canyon climbing guide was picked up by a publisher after years of Aaron releasing yearly self published guides. Bigger, better, more polished but still irreverent and whacky as ever, 'lies and propaganda from ten sleep canyon' can be purchased locally at Dirty Sallys. Of course now you can find it at a variety of climbing shops and on the interweb as well with a minimal amount of searching. Look for a new edition circa 2015.

Local purchases:

  • Quickdraws (singles only), chalk, bags, etc available at the Canyon Collections Gift Shop at MSRP.
  • Climber showers available at Ten Sleep Brewery for $2.
  • Dirty Sally's is sometimes be sold out of guidebooks. Both the Brewery and Gift Shop above have copies at $35 a pop.


Getting There 

Approaching from the East, pass through the town of Buffalo and take HWY 16 across the Big Horns. On the downside of Powder River Pass you will go down a few miles until you cross Tensleep Creek. The parking area for Mondo Beyondo is here, just after the bridge on the north side of the road.

Approaching from the West, go through the town of Ten Sleep and head up into the canyon. Pretty simple.


Climbing Season


411 Total Routes


['4 Stars',67],['3 Stars',206],['2 Stars',112],['1 Star',18],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',7],['5.9',18],['5.10',105],['5.11',125],['5.12',117],['5.13',29],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ten Sleep Canyon:
Beer Bong   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Dream Land
School's Out   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Slavery Wall
The Eldorado Coral Club   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   French Cattle Ranch : Big Kahuna Pillar
Circus in the Wind   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Circus Wall
Bikini Girls with Machine Guns   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Vietnam
I Just Do Eyes   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   French Cattle Ranch : The Back Forty
Save The Best For Last   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Wall of Denial
Joy of Heresy   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Mecca : The Ark
Killer Karma   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 85'   Oblivion Roof
Cocaine Rodeo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 105'   Drugs and Sex
Center El Shinto   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   French Cattle Ranch : Sector Shinto
Burl Ives Is Dead   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Lake Point : Illigitimus Rotundus
Great White Behemoth   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Superratic Pillar
Happiness in Slavery   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Slavery Wall
Vitamin K   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   Drugs and Sex
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Slavery Wall
Esplanada   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   French Cattle Ranch : The Grasshopper Wall
Crown Prince Abdullah   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Slavery Wall
Tangerine Fat Explosion   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 65'   French Cattle Ranch : Whiny Baby Wall
Sky Pilot   5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a     Sport, 60'   French Cattle Ranch : Sector D'or et Bleu
Browse More Classics in Ten Sleep Canyon

Featured Route For Ten Sleep Canyon
Pink Floyd inspired photo shoot at The Cigar.

The Name of the Game 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  WY : Ten Sleep Canyon : ... : The Cigar
Bullet hard stone with perfect little water sculpted pockets. As the route gets steeper you are forced right to gain more good features and some tiny crimps near the lip....[more]   Browse More Classics in WY

Local Information for Ten Sleep Canyon
Photos of Ten Sleep Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Great pockets...
Great pockets...
Nuthin' (13c), Jungle Gym, Ten Sleep Canyon
Nuthin' (13c), Jungle Gym, Ten Sleep Canyon
view from dry wall, where we stayed dry in the approaching storm.
view from dry wall, where we stayed dry in the app...
..
..
Weasel Power (12d), Dry Wall, Ten Sleep Canyon
Weasel Power (12d), Dry Wall, Ten Sleep Canyon
on our way to the dry wall
on our way to the dry wall
Sky Pilot (13c), Cattle Ranch, Ten Sleep Canyon
Sky Pilot (13c), Cattle Ranch, Ten Sleep Canyon
Ian Dory on "F-ed in the A" 5.14b in Mondo Beyondo
Ian Dory on "F-ed in the A" 5.14b in Mondo Beyondo
Josh, showing us what a real man is all about.  Putting up a new route on French Cattle Ranch in July 2008.
Josh, showing us what a real man is all about. Pu...
Ice Station Zebra. 5.9 to first anchor and then 5.10c to second anchor for 100 total feet! If you don't do this route, you hate your mother and America!
BETA PHOTO: Ice Station Zebra. 5.9 to first anchor and then 5....
Ten Sleep Canyon
Ten Sleep Canyon
north rim
north rim
View down canyon from the Circus area descent
View down canyon from the Circus area descent
Doing the Beer Bong! 5.10b
Doing the Beer Bong! 5.10b
Linda on-sighting 12.a
Linda on-sighting 12.a
Wild Flowers in full bloom
Wild Flowers in full bloom
Tensleep, Wyoming
BETA PHOTO: Tensleep, Wyoming
10 sleep canyon  <br />By Christian Baird
10 sleep canyon
By Christian Baird
Sidewalk Buttress is on the right.
Sidewalk Buttress is on the right.
Fun pastimes while waiting for the crags to catch shade :)
Fun pastimes while waiting for the crags to catch ...
Stan Z
Stan Z
Jamie and Stan
Jamie and Stan
Ye Olde Broken Leg Belay: may not be doctor recommended (March 2012)
Ye Olde Broken Leg Belay: may not be doctor recomm...
Comments on Ten Sleep Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2014
By EMM
May 6, 2006

what is the weather like in mid may? Should I wait? Thanks for any info.

By Bruce Pech
Aug 26, 2006

The Ten Broek RV Park in the town of Ten Sleep offers sybaritic climbers weary of USFS campgrounds tent sites, communal bathrooms and showers, a laundry room, and clean, "primitive" cabins equipped with air-conditioners and electricity. The Park is a short block's walk from the town's bars, cafe, espresso joint, and ice cream parlor -- and a 10-30 minute drive from the Canyon's climbing areas. Tent sites are $19/day; cabins start at $36/day. Call ahead for more information and reservations. (Thanks to Bryson Slothower for the tip.)

By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
May 3, 2007

The Book for the area is good. The only problem is that routes are going in so fast that there is a new book out each year. I wish that Huey would publish just the additional routes as a companion. I still recommend that you buy the book and head out to Ten Sleep if you have not been. Unless of course you don't like sport climbing because it is not pure enough for you, or whatever. If you don't like clipping bolts then you will hate Ten Sleep as much as you hate Shelf, Lander, Rifle, Utah Hills, Last Chance Canyon, and all of the other places where protection has been given higher importance than Style.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 4, 2007

Bill,

Any advice on where to find the guidebook?

By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Jun 13, 2007

The guidebook can be purchased in Tensleep at the general store (Dirty Sally's). I remember that there was some sort of issue with the owner not taking credit cards so plan on paying with cash ~$20 if I remember correctly. I also believe that the Wildernessexchange in Denver will have it. If you are coming up through Denver that is probably your best bet.

From Huey's website:

"Pick up a copy of the Tensleep Guide at DIRTY SALLY'S Ice Cream shop in Tensleep, The Wild Iris Mountain Store in downtown Lander, or Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder."

I'm still Pretty sure that the Wildy Sex Change has it too.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Jun 14, 2007

Thanks Bill! I've heard refences to free camping in the area. Where is that located?

By Jim Amidon
Aug 15, 2007

Just returned from Ten Sleep and although the climbing was sweet, finding the free camping took some time. The Forest Service campsites down canyon are a crime. Charging people to be stacked one on top of another, and adjacent to the highway. We "found" after 2-3 trips up the old highway very few spots to camp. We did find a sweet place that about 4-5 parties can camp in. There was not much to be had on the old highway. If there is "loads" of free camping on forest service land we didn't find it.
Bring everything you need for wilderness camping cause the town of Ten Sleep had very little in the way of provisions.
Awesome place >>>>

By Matt TeNgaio
Aug 20, 2007

Are Sinks and Tensleep at about the same elevation? Are their seasons similar? I'm trying to decide on one fo the two.

Never been to Tensleep. I saw the guide a couple of years ago and that alone got me stoked to check it out. I love pocketed limestone!

By m.wendling
Sep 4, 2007

there is much more elevation difference from crag to crag in ten sleep, thus, the season is nearly year-round.
if you like steep angles or routes above 5.12, ten sleep does not compare to the sinks.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 12, 2008

There is an ice climb in Ten Sleep canyon that I've done. It's pretty obvious from the road.

By Tina
From: Loveland, Co
May 27, 2008

I have to drive past there the weekend of June 6th, I was wondering, to make the other trip worth it, if anyone would be interested in climbing. I have never been to the area. I could be there on the 5th or the 8th for the day.
Tina

By grappler
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 2, 2008

GO TO TENSLEEP JULY 4th WEEKEND, my wife and I have been going the last 4 years. Its way cooler (temps) than Iris and Sinks and has WAY, WAY more routes. Its Iris plus Sinks times 10. And Iris is WAY crowded for their festival.

The informal festival kind of dissolved for awhile but I hear its coming back big this year. Rodeo, street dance, and alot of new routes. Youll find a good number of climbers to hang out with that week, but will never find a crag thats crowded, there's just too much rock.

Camping in Tensleep is free on the old road. Routes in shade all day, the upper canyon goes in at 1pm. The Lower Canyon is good for morning. You couldnt climb all the routes there is you stayed all summer.

Guidebook can be found at the Ice Cream shop in Tensleep or online, search google for Tensleep climbing guide. I hear there are 700 routes there now. Is this true? There must be at least 500 from what Ive seen.

By Tina
From: Loveland, Co
Jun 2, 2008

Hey grappler, the 4th sounds great, but unfortunately I have no control over this weekend. A friend in Montana is getting married on Saturday so I am driving up there for the wedding. I just figured that if I was going to drive all that way, I would try to get some climbing in while there. But thanks for the info.
Tina

By grappler
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 2, 2008

Any day in Ten Sleep is good, just be sure to go!!! Early june will be best in lower canyon. Look for Charlie Kardaleff he bolted all the best 10s and 11s down there!

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 4, 2008

Thought you all planning on visiting Ten Sleep might be interested in this:

blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&friendID=123>>>

I almost expect to see Mike pissing on the bases of all the routes. Bizarre...

By Tina
From: Loveland, Co
Jun 4, 2008

Hey Matt.
I saw this post too (by the way this is Tina from inner strength). I am heading there alone and am a little concerned about this guy, but I don't like the idea of not going either. But worst case scenario, things are weird and I pack it in and head home early. Hope all is well.
Tina

By powerandrubber
Jun 4, 2008

Here's an email being circulated about the situation. The sheriff and FS law enforcement are watching this asshole very closely but everyone can help by expressing their concerns to the authorities as listed below.

> Some of you climb in Tensleep Canyon (WYO) and some of you dont.
>
> My hope is that if you love climbing or you know anyone at all who climbs in Ten Sleep that you will help us with a simple email to the local authorities.
>
> Mike Decker, a local who has created problems in the past is making threats against visitors to the canyon. While I dont believe that he will likely hurt anyone that he doesnt know, there is a VERY high likelihood that he will hurt one of the 6 main bolters in the canyon.
>
> Please take 1 minute and send a brief message that links his myspace posting (his "declaration of war") : blog.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&friendID=123>>>
>
> And tell the authorities (following addresses are the police and sheriff) wcsdept@rtconnect.net, wcso201@rtconnect.net, worlpd@rtconnect.net, copwpd@rtconnect.net
> that you are concerned about the threat of violence and youd like them to act BEFORE something happens, not AFTER. That without action you will have a hard time visiting this summer.
>
> In 2006 Mike attacked two bolters that he knew, and was charged with battery. That summer he also chopped a dozen routes. Lets get a jump on this situation and stop it before it starts again. The best way to fight back is to not be afraid. COME IN LARGE NUMBERS AND ENJOY TEH CANYON.
>
> 500+ routes now, and free camping!
>
> This summer we are celebrating the 10th Annual (and very informal) Ten Sleep Climbing Festival over the 4th of July weekend (rodeo, street dance, and new routes)
>
> 100 emails coming in to the police department WILL make something happen.
> If you think of anyone else please send this on to them.
>
> Many Thanks.
>

By powerandrubber
Jun 4, 2008

From the sheriffs office...

This matter can be dealt with before tragedy befalls anyone. I would need you to complete and file a formal affidavit as to the threats against you. This can be accomplished by coming to Worland, Wyoming and completing the affidavit first hand or I can forward you a statement form that you can fill out, have notarized and return the original back to me. At that time we can forward this information to the Washakie County Attorney. I have also spoken with Cindy Gradin, U.S. Forest Service Law Enforcement Officer out of Sheridan, Wyoming and advised her of this issue as well. She can be contacted at cgradin@fs.fed.us. We are willing to help you with this issue, but you are going to have to help us document these problems and make the County Attorney aware of them so some sort of action can be taken.

Thank You

Steven R. Rakness

Sheriff, Washakie County, Wyoming

By Tina
From: Loveland, Co
Jun 4, 2008

I still plan on going. Does anyone know of anyone I could hook up with there to climb with? I will be traveling alone. I had hoped to meet someone there or in town, but if I knew someone ahead of time that might be better.


Tina

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 9, 2008

Thanks, powerandrubber. This letter was posted to MP.com's feedback also (I should have put up the whole email). It's good to see that there is a response from the sheriff's. Has anybody followed up on this?

Tina, we are fairly certain we will be there that weekend (along with some others). I wouldn't worry too much about this guy as there will probably be a fair number of people there.

By Tina
From: Loveland, Co
Jun 10, 2008

For what it's worth. I did contact Mike. I didn't know what to expect, but I met up with him and another friend and climbed with him both Sunday and Monday. FYI, lead my first 12a, awesome! He is a great guy and I understand his beef and everything seems to have been blown way out of proportion. He's not crazy (well no more than I am)or violent. And he has put in a lot of work and money into that area. I will definitely be climbing with him again. And the area.. is absolutely beautiful!

By Monica Lucarelli
From: Denver, CO
Jun 19, 2008

I heard a rumor that there is a 2008 ten sleep guide available. Does anyone know if this is true or not? I am planning on being in the area for the 4th of July festivities and would like to have the most recent guide.

Thanks

By India
Jun 28, 2008

We know biting flies can be somewhat of a neusance in this area from time to time. Anyone have recent information about biting flies for this time of year?

By Krista m
Jun 29, 2008

This is off topic, sorry. But we want to go this summer with our kids. How are the bases of the cliffs and approaches? Kid friendly?

By Justin F P
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Jun 30, 2008

Does anyone know if a 50M rope would be adequate for the area? I am planning a trip here in a week. Unfortunately the only rope i have access to is a 50M. Thanks for the info.
Climb hard.
J

By Matt Richardson
Administrator
From: Longmont, CO
Jul 2, 2008

India, some friends of ours were concerned about this also, so they called up there. The consensus was that they were not an issue right now.

Krista, we have a child and we are going up with another family this weekend; I will let you know what I think.

By KyleD
Jul 24, 2008

Hey guys! A few of my friends and I are gonna visit the canyon this weekend. Any recommendations on which areas we should visit? Any info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Aug 27, 2008

apparantly a post about the condition of his rack.
Not good :)

I wont be leaving any draw behind next week.
WEBE.

Mondo eh?
Any other must do's?? i'd like to see some flashy lines in the upper 12's and 13s.
Love the look of that stone!
It is gonna rock!

By kyber
From: Portland
Sep 10, 2008

yeah sorry i know its not really a condition report, but i posted it like that for two reasons: 1) it will automatically delete itself and 2) it puts itself at the top.

i guess ill take it down and buy some new draws. ten sleep is the bomb cant wait til next summer!

By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Sep 10, 2008

Strangly enough when i was there last week. There were fixed draws everywhere up in FCR and superratic.
I wonder why yours came up missing with all that? there was no one around for 4 days. one other party that we had chatted with.
anyways.

sick sick sick.
the above mentioned walls are the shizz.
two thumbs up for the ten sleep saloon.

By kyber
From: Portland
Sep 21, 2008

yeah im pretty sure it was a innocent misstake. there were 3 other routes with draws on them (slavery wall) and i was able to find out that there were 8 kids from the univ. of wyoming and that they had been gangbanging that route. 4 of them went down to the parking lot earlier than the others and im thinking maybe the 4 remaining thought they (the draws) belonged to someone in the 4 that went down. seems weird that theyd just steal my draws and not get the others. who knows? it doesnt even begin to damper my feelings about ten sleep. this was my second trip there both being a month long and i plan on being back next summer cause it just doesnt get much better than this!

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 4, 2009

So...we're planning on heading out to Ten Sleep over the 4th of July weekend (can't wait), but nary a guidebook is to be found. I'm sure I'll be able to find one once I get into town, but I was hoping to have something to peruse before we show up. I've called every place I've heard of that carries Huey's guide, hoping to get one shipped to me in Atlanta, but they are all out and don't know when they'll be getting new stock.

Any info appreciated...

Thanks,
Mike

By HoseBeats
Apr 16, 2009

Would Tensleep warrant a month long stay? How hard would it be to find partners? I'd like to avoid the crowds of Lander or Rifle, yet still climb quality routes. So is Tensleep worth it?

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 16, 2009

Negative. Tensleep good for ten sleeps only! Duh! ;-)

By Aaron Huey
May 4, 2009

NEW Ten Sleep 6th edition guide book out JUNE 10!

you can get it from www.aaronhuey.com

or Dirty Sally's and the stagecoach shop in Tensleep. Also Wild Iris in Lander.

see you in July!

By DoubleA
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 2, 2009

Anyone have experience bringing dogs to Tensleep? All good? No good?

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Jun 10, 2009

Aaron - that's awesome about the new guidebook! Thanks for all the hard work...can't wait to check it out.

Given the timing of our trip, we prob won't have a chance to get the guide before heading out there. That said, can anyone recommend a good area for our first day on the rock? Something relatively easy to get to with a wide range of difficulty (5.9 to low 5.12). We're from the south, so we can deal with some heat (if that makes a difference in crag recommendation).

Thanks!
Mike

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 10, 2009

Heat? I drove through the canyon last Friday and the temperature was about 35-45 degrees F! This was unusually cold, though.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 12, 2009

Mike,

Go to the main Mondo Beyondo area or Home Alone (right by the road). You won't have to worry about heat at Tensleep, all the westerners are wimps when it comes to that. If the 500 sweet routes at Tensleep aren't enough, or if your fingers get worked by the sharp dolomite, head to Spearfish Canyon in SD, it's only a couple of hours away and there are hundreds more routes that seem to be less sharp. Enjoy!!

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Jun 16, 2009

Tzilla - thanks, we'll check those areas out. As for Spearfish, yeah, we're checking it out for a few days en route to Ten Sleep (we're flying into Rapid City). Based on your warning about the sharp holds, maybe we should have planned our destinations in reverse order. Then again, I hear Ten Sleep is a good time over the July 4th weekend...can't wait.

Mike

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 6, 2009

Anybody have any info on the overhang that forms the right wall of a dihedral across the canyon from Home Alone? There's a 10 bolt 10+ all by its lonesome, and its damn good!

I got the beta. Its a Decker route, but since it doesn't really have any good parking, is all by its lonesome, and incredibly obvious, it might be worthwhile to leave it be until developing fills in around it.

By richard magill
Jul 7, 2009

A recent visit confirms that this is now UNQUESTIONABLY the premier limestone area in the state! I love Wild Iris and Sinks, but as good as those places are, Ten Sleep is bigger and better - by a long shot.

By Crimp Nasty
Sep 23, 2009

Are wasps a problem in the pockets here during July/August?

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Sep 24, 2009

This past July I found lots of creatures living in the pockets, spiders, bugs, even a bat living in one of the pockets. Nothing prevented us from climbing though. Didn't come across any wasps. I've been to quite a few sport climbing crags in the US and this one blew me away.

By timoteo
Oct 3, 2009

saw lots of wasp-like bees in the pockets in mid-september of this year, but none were aggressive. Just go there!

By Ben C
From: Portland, OR
May 13, 2010

So, I've never been out here, but I'm making a trip out to wild iris and Ten Sleep Canyon starting next week! i was wondering if anybody could tell me what "amenities" the forest service campground has to offer, i.e running water, bathrooms etc.

Thanks a lot!
Ben

By William Roth
May 13, 2010

@Ben C - I would look into weather conditions. The road to Wild Iris might still be snow covered (Sinks Canyon is a close-by alternative). We have been getting snowed on a bunch lately.

By Ben C
From: Portland, OR
May 13, 2010

Thanks William! how does Ten Sleep compare snow wise at the moment to Iris? Do you know of any other areas that are snow free around the Lander area? Lots of questions i know, but i appreciate the answers! Thanks in advance!

Ben

By Broooks
May 19, 2010

My girl and i are planning on being here for the July 4th festivities and we were wondering if it's worth bringing our dual sport motorcycles. Can anyone advise if this area is dual sport friendly (i.e.. rideable terrain, ethics, regulations)?

By shane brenner
From: evansville,wy
May 27, 2010

hi everyone were heading to tensleep for memorial weekend this friday or saturday and will be there all weekend. please contact me if you are needing some climbing partners...we sure do! thanks...

By dawn powell
Jul 1, 2010

With the Ten Sleep Climbing Festival - is it very crowded? I don't want to participate, we just want to climb and don't want to stand in line for good areas.

By snowdenroad
Jul 12, 2010

Hey Ten Sleep Climbers!

What is the mountain biking like out there? Is there single-track, or mostly riding on 4wd roads and dirt bike trails? Lots of it or limited?

Any beta is appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
paul

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Jul 26, 2010

Last time I was in Ten Sleep I had the best pizza I've ever had. Fellow climbers check it out! I think it was called Sacketts Fork wood fire pizza. It's a small place outside next to the bank. They don't sell beer but they let you bring your own. Just another reason Ten Sleep climbing is the bomb!

By Dreez
Aug 17, 2010

Wow. Wow. Did I say Wow.

Talked about Mega-bolted and some ultra classic routes. Never did I feel scared, and I am a 100% wuss lead climber. The people that did this are creating a world class #1 top destination. I've been on the road 3 months and this blows away any other crag.

I heard from a local that Mike Snyder???? Some Mike guy did most the work on this canyon. The approach paths must of took YEARS. Talk about hard work. And bolting 500+ climbs with bolts every 6 feet. Wow. Must of been YEARS of work and THOUSAND of dollars.

A heartfelt THANK YOU to whomever. Send me this guys contact info, I want to thank him personally if I come back.

Wow!

By Dreez
Aug 17, 2010

We stayed at the Ten Sleep RV park in town. Great for $18/night, WIFI. Good showers. Abouit 5 miles to crag.

By Dreez
Aug 17, 2010

We stayed at the Ten Sleep RV park in town. Great for $18/night, WIFI. Good showers. Abouit 5 miles to crag.

By richard magill
Aug 18, 2010

Don't forget the Godfather: Stan Price

Although Stan's routes often had about 20 feet between bolts... gnarler!

Stan put a group of us up in his house about a decade ago, drew us hand-drawn maps/topos, and then took us out for the best prime rib ever at the Worland VFW. Awesome!

By David Hodges
From: Parker, Colorado
Aug 18, 2010

You can tell for sure when you're on a Stan Price route! Safe with a belayer you trust, a little spice keeps it interesting. I've noticed all the route developers have different styles of bolting and grading, they have all done a brilliant job of developing this absolute gem!

By Deer Haven Lodge Ten Sleep WY
Oct 23, 2010

Before your climbe or after come on into Deer Haven Lodge for a Great meal. Or stay with us and hike the trails from here to one of the many canyon walls.

By cwill5992
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 18, 2011

I'm considering coming up to Ten Sleep at the beginning of June and am just wondering what type of temperatures I can expect. thanks

By Aaron Huey
Mar 18, 2011

2011 TEN SLEEP CANYON GUIDE BOOK
2011 TEN SLEEP CANYON GUIDE BOOK

The 2011 Ten Sleep guidebook will be available sometime between April 15 and May 1 from stores all over the US. 250 pages, full color, waaaaay more photos and topos. Go to Ten Sleep's facebook page to see inside the book.

Advance orders can me made through www.extremeangles.com

By Mikel Cronin
Mar 28, 2011

For a place to stay in Ten Sleep, check out the Ten Sleep Log Cabin Motel. There are 7 rooms to choose from (some with kitchenettes) as well as a 3 bedroom guest house for rent. Website is wwww.tensleepmotel.com.

By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
May 5, 2011

i love guidebooks. my wife would say i have a guidebook "problem." i read them like novels. but the new Ten Sleep lies and propaganda aaron huey guidebook is the first i've ever seen that actually merits such treatment.

this guide surpasses every expectation one might have for a guide. it is a work of art. or comedy. or something. talk to Zach at extreme angles publishing and get a copy of this thing. then make your pilgramage. lord knows, now i'm really looking forward to mine....

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 24, 2011

Is there any word yet about the location of this year's non-fest? Looking forward to seeing everyone.

By Ten Sleep Saloon
Jun 28, 2011

Love rock climbing? Want to live next to one of the biggest and best climbing areas in the world, with literally hundreds of sport routes? The Ten Sleep Saloon and Restaurant (in ten Sleep, Wyoming) is for sale, Look us up on loopnet.com for details!

By m.wendling
Nov 4, 2011

Every season I hear more and more comments from traveling climbers about manufactured holds in Ten Sleep Canyon. It would seem that chipping and drilling are not just confined to the 5.14's either. The evolution of this crag makes me sad. It's become another Jack's Canyon and an embarassment to Wyoming.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 4, 2011

Talk to the Canadian Matt, he's the one with the chisel.

By Mees
From: Iowa
Dec 21, 2011

If Ten Sleep is an embarassment then what does that make Sinks and Iris?

By craggy
May 6, 2012

Could you please advise me on the current conditions? I understand that it is really warm in the area. Also is there somewhere to camp in Mid May?

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
May 12, 2012

As for camping this time of year. I think the old road is closed till mid or early June. The campground at the bottom might be open. Above the canyon it is all National forest "free" camping. Just find a dirt road and you will find camping anywhere.

By Judy Lyman
May 22, 2012

Canyon Collections (Gift shop across from the park and next to Sno Shavers Shave Ice) in Ten Sleep is now carring a small assortment of climbing equipement...Chalk, locally made chalk bags, quick draws, etc. Also,the only place in town carring "THE" climbing book, "Lies and Propaganda from Ten Sleep Canyon", by Aaron Huey, Also find healing balms/salves as well as natural bug sprays, sun screen, etc. (PS, ask about thenew area just recently opened for climbing just off WY state highway 436....)

You will also want to stop at Sno Shavers and have the BEST shave ice this side on anywhere...REAL shave ice, not a snowcone with koolaide!!Add Ice Cream to the bottom for a real taste treat.

By Judy Lyman
May 22, 2012

Canyon Collections (Gift shop across from the park and next to Sno Shavers Shave Ice) in Ten Sleep is now carring a small assortment of climbing equipement...Chalk, locally made chalk bags, quick draws, etc. Also,the only place in town carring "THE" climbing book, "Lies and Propaganda from Ten Sleep Canyon", by Aaron Huey, Also find healing balms/salves as well as natural bug sprays, sun screen, etc. (PS, ask about thenew area just recently opened for climbing just off WY state highway 436....)

You will also want to stop at Sno Shavers and have the BEST shave ice this side on anywhere...REAL shave ice, not a snowcone with koolaide!!Add Ice Cream to the bottom for a real taste treat.

By Natalie Rose
Jul 5, 2012

Just FYI, Ten Broek RV Park now charges $8 for a shower....!!! (um, i'm all about supporting the local economy but this is crazy!)
You can also drive to Worland and pay $5 at the campsite there. Or....drive an hour(ish) to Thermopolis on a rest day and get a free shower (YMCA style) at the hot springs there.....
Or just keep smelling like patchouli.......

Sno shavers is awessssssome! They also have jalapeņo cheese filled soft pretzels, highly recommended.

By Judy Lyman
Jul 6, 2012

It's hard to explan the disappointment I feel. In an effort to let the climbing community know that we carry climbing supplies I hung a climbing harness up as a "sign". Never has anything ever been taken before, but someone must have felt they needed the harness worse than the store needed it....Judy, Canyon Collections, Ten Sleep.

By Tom R
From: Denver, CO
Jul 6, 2012

Jerks! I'm sorry to hear this, Judy.

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Jul 7, 2012

Judy, sorry for your theft. I hope things like this don't give climbers a bad name as this is not indicative of the climbing community as a whole ("one bad apple can spoil the bunch"). Thank you for your support of climbing in TenSleep and next time I'm in T.S. I'll be sure to stop by your store with my money.

By Sam Dexter
Jul 12, 2012

Hey all
Had an amazing 4th of July up at ten sleep this year! Did leave a pair of smith sunglasses on croakies hanging on a small pine underneath the El Shinto climbs. If anyone stumbled on them over 4th of July week I'd be happy to send you postage or a shipping label.
Many thanks to those who worked so hard to make ten sleep what it is!

By Judy Lyman
Aug 1, 2012

Thanks to David Silberman and Lauren Streifel, my faith has been restored. After having a climbing harness disappear from in front of my store(Canyon Collections), used as a way to let climbers know that I carry guide books, chalk and other small essentials for those in need, David and Lauren out of the kindness of their hearts brought me another harness AND encouraged someone else to donate a climbing rope that I could use to alert climbers that I carry climbing items they may need. All of you have been so supportive and wonderful. Thanks for coming to our community and thanks for visiting Canyon Collections as well as Sno Shavers (for the best shave ice ever!). Judy

By Mike Snyder
Administrator
Oct 25, 2012

The only embarrassment to Ten Sleep Canyon is the guy who made this comment:

"Every season I hear more and more comments from traveling climbers about manufactured holds in Ten Sleep Canyon. It would seem that chipping and drilling are not just confined to the 5.14's either. The evolution of this crag makes me sad. It's become another Jack's Canyon and an embarassment to Wyoming."

He is the only one who resorted to chipping and drilling pockets to make his routes go. Then when he was unable to redpoint them, he pulled all the bolts out in some childish sissy fit, throwing the bolts into the woods and farming the hangers for other 'new' routes he also couldn't climb. All sad but true.

Also Mr. Wendling, there are plenty of manufactured holds in the pristine limestone of the crags around Lander as well.

By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Nov 3, 2012

like a goddamn soap opera around here!

By ronan
Apr 22, 2013

was hoping to visit ten sleep this july as my friends are staying in san franciso and i was planning on travelling to sten sleep for some climbing, unfortunatly i do not have a partner to climb with. any info or available partners would be greatly appreciated :)

By Chris Baldwin
From: CO
Apr 23, 2013

I am heading to Ten Sleep in Mid May, Is the weather going to be warm and dry enough to enjoy the Limestone?

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Apr 24, 2013

Chris- lots of good climbing days in May, but also lots of good storms that stick around for a couple days or more at a time. Also, the air temperature can be quite cold still, and remember that the majority of cliffs at Tensleep dip into the shade ~1PM. Depending on the length of your trip, you will probably get some climbable days in there. But if I were you, I'd strongly consider heading to Lander, where Sinks Canyon provides sunny sport climbing on dolomite similar to Tensleep. Plus you can always jet over in a couple hours if the forecast looks conducive.

By gunslingerz
Apr 28, 2013

I have young children who like to climb (4 and 8 years old). Are there any places you recommend with incredibly EASY routes so they have a little success and enjoy it? The canyon is beautiful, but my kids burn out rather quickly without mini victories. Also helpful are any locations where an easy top rope can be set for those occasions where I take my kids climbing, but do not have another adult to belay me and set something up on lead.

By Mike Farnsworth
May 10, 2013

Does anyone know about public transportation (or any transportation) from Casper to Ten Sleep? (I only need one-way transport.) I'm also looking for folks to climb with from middle to late June, as I will probably be without a partner for those dates: if you're interested, please let me know.

Thanks!

Mike

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 10, 2013

I recall checking a long time ago, to see what busses ran to and from Casper. The short version is not a lot. You might be able to catch one from Casper to Buffalo, but that's still on the other side of Powder River Pass from where you want to go. Good luck!

By Chris Nischan
May 19, 2013

Hey Ten Sleep community, I plan on being out in Ten Sleep for a couple days towards the end of August. Just wondering what are the closest camping options to the climbs. Thanks!

By KelNsteve
Jul 2, 2013

We are heading to ten sleep in July wondering if there is cell service at the primitive camping closest to the climbing?

By Leigh Schelman
Jul 3, 2013

Hi,
I'm going to be in Ten Sleep July 10-12.
I'm looking for a partner to climb sport 10s and easy 11s.
Is camping easy to find in the area?
Thanks,
Leigh
Female, 44

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2013

KelNsteve wrote:
We are heading to ten sleep in July wondering if there is cell service at the primitive camping closest to the climbing?

No one in our group had any cell service in the canyon until we got near the lower fish hatchery en route to the town of Ten Sleep.

By Wally
From: Denver
Jul 9, 2013

As a first time visitor last weekend from Colorado, good directions to the Ten Sleep free camping area were hard to find, approaching from the east. Here you go:

Powder River Pass is mile marker 55 on highway 16.
Willow Park Campground is mile marker 45 on highway 16.
Deer Haven Lodge is mile marker 44 on highway 16.

The old road, gateway to good and free Ten Sleep camping, is near mile marker 42 on highway 16. The old road is not signed and difficult to spot at night. A good landmark is the old road turnoff is about 100 feet beyond the sign that says "Runaway Truck Ramp 2 miles". If you get to the bridge over Ten Sleep Creek, mile marker 41.70, you have gone too far.

The better but more crowded free camping options are higher up canyon on the old road. Further down the canyon on the old road the camping isn't as good, but there are plenty of options.

Ten Sleep is awesome. Looking forward to my return trip! Wally

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 9, 2013

To expand on Wally's comment, above, it should also be noted the "old road" runs parallel to the highway and you can access it from the top (higher up towards the top of the canyon) and the bottom (down at the bottom of the canyon).

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Jul 11, 2013

There is miles of free established camping up West Ten Sleep road. Turn right (north west) at Deer Haven cabins drive till you find one. There must be 30-40 free established spots,easy drive in,and some right next to the creek.

By Natalie Rose
Jul 15, 2013

Don't forget to visit Canyon Collectibles while in town. Judy sells the basics including homemade chalk bags! She closes at 5pm but is usually at the shaved ice shack till 7 or 8.

By MariaB
From: Palo Alto, California
Aug 15, 2013

This might be a crapshoot, but has anyone found a pair of very small Boostics near the base of Killer Karma about a week ago? Much, much appreciated.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 15, 2013

As of last week they were sitting on a boulder at the base of Killer Karma. Don't know if anyone has picked them up since then.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 15, 2013

Also, I think the name Ten Sleep comes from the fact that you have to sleep until 10 AM, then get up & go climbing, hence Ten Sleep.......

By S. Grant Walker
Aug 20, 2013

Climbing in Ten Sleep and need a partner for 11+ to 5.12 climbing on the 24th through possibly the 30th of August 2013! 907 632-9341.

I am from Alaska, I have been climbing for 30 yrs mixed, trad, sport, alpine. Kind of all around climber. I am a family man with children. Iam focused and want to get at it. Tick list kind of guy. Need partner. Climb, climb, climb.

Grant Walker
907 632-9341

By Kirk L
Aug 29, 2013

How is cell service in the area? I might be driving up on my own and want to make sure I can find the campsite where everyone is staying. I find that I have a hard time getting service in most climbing areas with Virgin Mobile.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Aug 29, 2013

There isn't any cell service in the canyon at all. You pretty much need to drive into the town of Tensleep.

By Natalie Rose
Jun 17, 2014

Go to the Ten Sleep Brewery! And spread the word!

By dnoB ekiM
Jun 19, 2014

+1 Ten Sleep Brewing Company!!

Great beer ( perhaps the best pale ale I have ever had), cool owner, superb location! Love it!
Also has showers and laundry if you are camping in the canyon!!!
Check it out!

By Dani Couch
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 3, 2014

Is ten sleep dog friendly? Unable to find a dog sitter for the weekend and I've never been out there!

By Judy Lyman
Aug 5, 2014

For anyone in need, Saturday (Aug. 1, 2014) there were still a few guide books for Ten Sleep available in Buffalo at the Sports Shop.

By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
4 days ago

If you are coming from the south on I 25, Mountain Sports in Casper has TS guide books in stock.

By Randall Judycki
From: Austin, Texas
1 day ago

Added 2 new route to the water into wine area. Just to the right of water into wine is wine and cheese 5.10, 7 bolts to anchors. To the right of that is Beer and Brats 5.10, 7 bolts. Put up in July of 2014.
Also, put up a new route on Eldorado Coral Club. Just to the left of the 5.10d in the guide book. The name is notorious BCG's, it is mid 5.10. Put up July 2014
Great place to climb. Had a great summer in the Ten Sleep area.