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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Le Toit Direct T 
Le Verne T 
Lipsync T,S 
Mean Lean T 
Psycho S 
Rosy Toit T 
Scary Canary T 
Temporary Like Achilles T,S 
Trippin T 
Tubesock Tanline T 
Wasabe S 
Wisdom, The T 

Temporary Like Achilles 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: [FA 1967 Pat Ament &Larry Dalke, 1967 led Layton Kor & Cub Schaefer, ?FFA] John Bragg, Steve Wunsch
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 1 Lead Pin, 4 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 3,179
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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Heady moves off the deck probably 10b/c, didn't re...

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  • Description 

    This is the route directly to the left of Evangeline. It is identified by a large attached flake with a bunch of chalk. Ascend this flake (crux) via some face moves to a left angling slot affair. Climb up the slot a little ways, fiddle in some pro, then pull over a minor roof on jugs to a bolt. From here take a direct line up to a two bolt anchor via a 5.9 seam with supplemental edges. There is another bolt and pin along this section. A historic classic, and a good quick route also.

    Eds. There is a roof pitch, freed by Ben Moon at 13d. It continues above the roof.

    Protection 

    Definitely dangerous, although not too hard for its original rating (.10c). You pull the crux 15 feet up w/ no pro, you're not going to die, but could easily twist your ankle. Slightly runout up higher, bring some TCUs for the pin scars.

    Eds. the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone.


    Photos of Temporary Like Achilles Slideshow Add Photo
    The crawl.
    The crawl.
    Placing a piece to protect the ceiling. Although there are several good footholds on the wall below, it's usually easist to keep the right leg or foot on the ledge.
    Placing a piece to protect the ceiling. Although t...
    Pulling the ceiling on big handholds. Soon as you step over you're in balance and can get good gear to protect somewhat difficult move to clip the bolt above.
    Pulling the ceiling on big handholds. Soon as you ...
    The hang.
    The hang.
    From the second bolt you move left onto the face and then up via laybacks and edges for the feet, aiming for the flake up and left from Tony. Tony didn't bother, but you can get a good nut and/or microcam here to better protect these moves.
    From the second bolt you move left onto the face a...
    On the kneeling traverse after the crux. Tony has back cleaned a piece and is re-placing it.
    On the kneeling traverse after the crux. Tony has ...
    There's a fixed pin here, and you can place a piece above to protect the last moves to the anchor bolts.
    There's a fixed pin here, and you can place a piec...
    The split.
    The split.
    The last hard move. It's over when you get to the flake.
    The last hard move. It's over when you get to the ...
    The gear. You can get a good small stopper in the finger crack, a little above the bolt.
    The gear. You can get a good small stopper in the ...
    Bruce Sposi on Temporary Like Achilles. <br /> <br />Photo Olaf Mitchell.
    Bruce Sposi on Temporary Like Achilles.

    Photo Ola...
    Vanya about to make the big move to the rail getting spotted by Tom.
    Vanya about to make the big move to the rail getti...

    Comments on Temporary Like Achilles Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2012
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Esc. - Yes, that's probably it. After thinking about it, this start is directly up the flake and onto the face after the flake arches to the left. It is only about 4 ft left of where the .10b start goes right. Years ago there was an upside down pin in the upper part of the arch, but it's gone. That is the way most people used to climb it. You end up smearing onto some slopers above the flake and reaching for an A-shaped hold, then paddling up to the rotten band. It is probably .11a if you are tall, and harder if you're not. It's a pretty exciting lead, especially on-sight.
    By Patrick Vernon
    From: Albuquerque, NM
    Jan 1, 2001

    Escalar- Its interesting what you said about the origional start being to the left. Do you mean starting up the flake and going left up to the really thin crimps? Ive never done that and it always looked significantly harder than .10+, I just had a friend who did it the other day onsight on lead _im pretty sure it was this line and not farther left_, and said that he thought it was about .11c, im curious because the rossiter eldo guide can be a bit nebulous at times.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 1, 2001

    Escalar - The original start, rated 5.10+, is about 8ft left of the start that you described. Most people now climb the much easier start on the right, 5.10b. The original start is actually quite hard--I think its 5.11a, and reachy. It's much better to toprope this because a fall might put you on the ground if your belayer doesn't pull in rope. Once you reach the rotten band, the remainder of the pitch is about .10a and lots of fun. Has anyone done a second ascent of the roof? "The Undertaker 5.13+". By the way the route above the roof, Hands in the Clouds, 5.12a, is very exciting and excellent.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 7, 2002

    Do not fall on the left-angling terrain above the flake. You and the ground might become awfully familiar with each other. This deserves an R or S for sure.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Feb 15, 2003

    Temporary Like Achilles is a Dylan song from Blonde on Blonde, 1966. One verse begins, "Kneeling 'neath your ceiling yes I guess I'll be here for a while." I thought this climb might have been named after the song because of the semi-crawling traverse low down. But, thinking about it, the FA on aid did not do the traverse. Maybe it was named this because of the hanging belay below the roof, or perhaps it's just coincidental that a line in the song would seem relevant to climbing.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Feb 15, 2003

    I followed this a few days ago (Josh Janes led), so take this with a grain of salt. Leo says above that the traverse left is bad news. Josh got a decent green 3/4 Camalot in a hole in the back of the red band before the start of the traverse. Then a red #1 Camalot straight up a few feet left. He then re-placed the red Camalot in a straight down crack. So the protection on the traverse is OK. The initial moves up to the red band are a possible ground fall as you stand up (good cam to start and possible wire at the top of the flake). And if you're short, it could be really scary getting established on the red band.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Feb 15, 2003

    History: From High Over Boulder, 1970:FA 1967 by Pat Ament and Larry Dalke.But... it goes on to say "first lead of this route was first done in 1967 by Layton Kor and Cub Schaefer." So did Ament and Dalke top rope it? Strange."About seven paces uphill of Evangeline is the start of this phenomenal adventure."
    By Charles Vernon
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Mar 9, 2004

    I put 3 pieces in to protect the traverse, but didn't trust them at all. I was wishing for a 3.5 Friend, which looked liked it would have fit perfectly just before you turn the roof and head for the bolt. The start is definitely an ankle-buster, but pretty dang soft for .10c!
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 18, 2005

    Does anyone know the name of the route (toprope or necky lead) that starts as Temporary LIke Achilles but goes over the small roof at the first break where Temporary traverses left. It rejoins Temporary at it's second bolt. Thanks!
    By Anonymous Coward
    Mar 18, 2005

    I believe that is the original aid line of ascent for Temporary. It goes free (on toprope for me) at around 11a.
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 5, 2005

    Watch out for the bee's nest in the flake. They usually don't get aggressive unless provoked, but the flake is loaded with them.
    By Kirk
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Feb 12, 2006
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    If you come off at the crux, you will most likely end up with more than a twisted ankle.
    By claramie
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 24, 2008

    Scary, no pro committing start off of that pointy flake. You can try to get some nuts in the top, but they probably wouldn't hold. A friend of mine saw Reardon on this climb (on rope) and he was sketched out about the start!
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Dec 29, 2008
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    Even the best belayer would have a tough time keep you off the ground, if you blow the crux move down low. A #4 C4 is handy as your first piece after the crux, while a couple blue aliens will sew up the pumpy section after the bolts. A great winter morning climb....
    By Bob Rotert
    Dec 12, 2010

    Curious if anyone has some confirmed knowledge of other free ascents of the roof? Has anyone succeeded in freeing it after Ben Moon's FFA back in early '90s. It looks like one of the hardest routes in Eldo to me.
    By J. Broussard
    From: CordryCorner
    Apr 11, 2012

    Wholly smokes, Batman! Why didn't anyone mention that the pin on the upper part of the first pitch is gone? Just about shat myself today when I got up there with a qd & no gear. Pucker factor of 9.3 after cranking the run-out 5.9 section & realizing that I had to continue running it out to the anchor.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Apr 13, 2012
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

    That last pin was poor and I've always placed a purple Camalot right next to it and not bothered to clip the pin.