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 ADVANCED
Squat Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Branded T 
Casual Corner T 
Elusive Wapiti T,S 
Flamingo Road T,S 
Higher Education S 
Jelly Omelet S 
Kirk's Corner T 
Lichen or Not T 
Misfit Kids T 
Miss Conception T 
Sex Favor TR 
Slimy Slit T 
Smut Puppy S 
Sticky Fingers T 
Temporary Clemency T,S,TR 
Urban Development T 

Temporary Clemency 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Heyliger & Brian Parsons,1986?
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: TBD on Jul 2, 2003

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Closed (private property)

Description 

The bolted slab between Urban Development and Kirk's Corner. Start as for Kirk's Corner, climb off the ground to the horizontal crack to the left. Hand traverse the crack to left to the arete. A small cam placement is possible here, prior to turning the corner to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and make a tricky move up onto the slab. Follow the bolts up and left via some very thin moves with an ocassional sloping knob. There is serious fall potential between the second and third bolt, ground fall very possible if near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse left across a good flake to the finish of Urban Development.

Overall, the climbing is very good and consistant almost the whole length. In my opinion, the route would be well served to have one more bolt between the second and third. As it stands now it is a very serious lead.


Protection 

4 5/16 bolts of ok condition. Possible small cam prior to 1st bolt. The second bolt is a spinner and should possibly be replaced because it protects the most serious fall potential.

To top rope, rap down clipping the bolts for directionals.



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By Anonymous Coward
Apr 27, 2005

The first ascent of this was done ground up, using occasional hooks and slings for aid support while drilling. We did it after the first round of bolt wars, and a couple of the area pioneers wandered by and commented it was nice to see someone drilling on the sharp end. The name refers to getting away from a bad romantic relationship, even for a few hours. Thankfully, that state has long been resolved by divorce of one of the FAs.

Given the state of fear while drilling, I am not surprised one of the bolts is a bit shaky after all this time. Anyone competent, feel free to remedy.

The FA team did only a few new routes back in the day, and while short, we considered this one of the better ones.

By TBD
Apr 28, 2005

When you established the route, did you place 4 or 5 bolts? Currently there are only 4, and if that was the case when you established the route, my hats off to you. Must have been scary running it out like that. Hubble's book shows 5, if that was the way you established it, it would be a much more reasonable lead.

I contemplated replacing the bolts, but descided that i wouldn't lead it with the ground fall potential between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and i didn't notice a chopped bolt between them. If there is supposed to be 5 bolts, I'll be happy to replace them.