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Temporary Clemency
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British X
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Squat Rock
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Branded T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Casual Corner T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Elusive Wapiti T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Flamingo Road T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Higher Education S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jelly Omelet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kirk's Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lichen or Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Misfit Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Miss Conception T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Sex Favors TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slimy Slit T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Smut Puppy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Temporary Clemency T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Urban Development T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Paul Heyliger & Brian Parsons, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 609 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | TBD on Jul 1, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
The bolted slab between Urban Development and Kirk's Corner. Start as for Kirk's Corner, climb off the ground to the horizontal crack to the left. Hand traverse the crack to left to the arete. A small cam placement is possible here, prior to turning the corner to the first bolt. Clip the first bolt and make a tricky move up onto the slab. Follow the bolts up and left via some very thin moves with an ocassional sloping knob. There is serious fall potential between the second and third bolt, ground fall very possible if near the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse left across a good flake to the finish of Urban Development.
Overall, the climbing is very good and consistant almost the whole length. In my opinion, the route would be well served to have one more bolt between the second and third. As it stands now it is a very serious lead.
Overall, the climbing is very good and consistant almost the whole length. In my opinion, the route would be well served to have one more bolt between the second and third. As it stands now it is a very serious lead.
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