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Temple Crag condition inquiry

Original Post
Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Looking to climb Dark Star next weekend and I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea what the snow and ice conditions are currently. I know it's been a low snow year but....

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Friend of a friend's photo of Temple from 4 May. It snowed more that day.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Thank you so much. You just saved me from a disappointing weekend.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

np, glad to help. The weather has been unstable in the Sierra the past few weeks with light snow up high. I'll likely head out to Temple when the weather stabilizes and will post pics.

Hutash · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 0

Further updates will be appreciated. Plan on heading there MMD weekend, weather/conditions permitting.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I'm going to get contrarian here - don't worry about the snow conditions. Just take a lightweight ax, some strap-on crampons and look for a good forecast. As long as it hasn't snowed in the previous day or two, you're good to go.

If you get to Third Lake and don't want to take the ax and crampons, just leave 'em at camp. How much snow on the ground shouldn't make a difference.

Edit: I wouldn't want snow on the ledges/edges of the climb, so that's why I'd give it a couple of days after it has snowed.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Since Dark Star is such a long route and I haven't climbed it yet and retreat isn't really an option, I'll wait for the snow to be melted away. I don't want to get stopped in the middle crevases and get into trouble. I've already climbed Sun Ribbon Arete and it was such a long day I don't want to add snow into the mix.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318
Jon Hartmann wrote:Since Dark Star is such a long route and I haven't climbed it yet and retreat isn't really an option, I'll wait for the snow to be melted away. I don't want to get stopped in the middle crevases and get into trouble. I've already climbed Sun Ribbon Arete and it was such a long day I don't want to add snow into the mix.
Wise choice. With the current temps it's going to take more than a few days to melt off even if it stops snowing. More snow predicted for this week, which is a good thing despite my impatience to climb.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Good move not to go when thin light fresh snow covers all the big boulders and giant scree slopes.
Personally I hope we continue to get these weak storms well into summer.
Fossana Thank you for the first hand reports.... Keeps us cube bound weekend warriors in the know

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Thanks, Guy, but you won't be getting any first hand Sierra reports from me until at least Memorial Day. I've been waiting out the weather in the NV/UT desert (b/c I'm not a real alpinist), and for the record I do work from my laptop during the week, just not in a cube. Happy to provide future reports though.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Adding some Sierra pics from yesterday taken from Coyote Flats (we rode dirt bikes b/c we were too lazy to slog under stormy skies).

looking toward Evolution/N Lake (25 May 2015)

Sierra conditions 1 of 3 (25 May 2015)

Sierra conditions 2 of 3 (25 May 2015)

Sierra conditions 3 of 3 (25 May 2015)

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Hoooo ..... the "rain" turned into a full blast winter blizzard.

We needed it.

fossana... pretty fun ride up to that place.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Guy, that was my first ride up there and conditions were perfect with the rain. What incredible views!

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

This isn't Temple, but here's an idea of the current snow conditions in the area. Darwin's that big flat-topped peak on the left skyline. Still a decent amount of snow/ice on less sunnier aspects/features from ~11.5K.

view southish from Emerson (mostly N faces) taken on 31 May 2015

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Wow, still quite a bit of snow. Hey fossana, have ever done My Favorite Things in Tuolunme? This year, I've got the Red Dihedrial, Dark Star, My Favorite Things and the classic Triple Crown with Ehicorn Pinnacle added on my to do list. Just waiting for the snow to go. I know what to expect from all of them but My Favorite Things and you seem to know your way around the alpine long routes. Ever heard any info outside of the things to be read off the internet?

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Jon, yes I have done that route (during the Rim Fire in fact). It's a lot of runout (but mellow) slab with a well-protect crux crack pitch, one of those novelty routes worth doing once if you don't mind slab. See my comment for the route for beta on the approach/route.

I saw a post from Chris McNamara yesterday saying Matthes is clear and he thought Tenaya might be clear by next weekend. I may try and go this coming Sat.

p.s. Tuolumne is still snowy/sloggy at higher elevations, btw, but it's warm and should melt out fast. Here's a photo of the N Ridge of Conness from this past Sat.

N Ridge of Conness from 30 May 2015

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

Fossana, you're my new favorite person. Thanks. I'm heading up on the 13th to climb My favorite things on Saturday and the triple crown on Sunday. Big weekend ahead.

Karsten Duncan · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,571

Thanks for the updates. Got the evolution on my menu for this summer.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

Glad I can help you guys out. Jon, you definitely have a big weekend planned. Hope the weather is more favorable than this coming weekend. Karsten, thanks for all of your route development in RR. Lmk if you need any info on Evolution.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,318

With the stormy weather I gave up on the Sierra and headed out to the Bay early for trail running before my work meetings next week. Jon, Tenaya Peak is still holding a little snow on the lower angle slabs, likely avoidable. There was barely any on Clouds Rest. It was, however, snowing lightly over Tioga at ~3pm today though not sticking. Hopefully warmer weather will dry things out before next weekend.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,766

A wealth of alpine information. Thank you so so much.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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