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Birthday Bolts T 
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Tempered, Not T 

Tempered, Not 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jon Sykes and Gareth Slattery. 1996
Page Views: 290
Submitted By: E thatcher on Nov 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Climb easily to a bolt 20' off the ground. Pass this with crimpy fun climbing up to a diagonal crack. Climb through this crack (passing over Natural HIgh) aiming for a right facing corner with a pin in it. Pull through through the roof at the top of the corner and finish off the climb on good in-cut holds to a slabby top out. Finishes at the same anchor as for Natural High.

Location 

Follow the trail from the turn off on the way to Echo. The first major open area you will come to will be at the base of a low angle section of cliff. Tempered, Not is located in the center, about 5' right of Natural High.

Protection 

A standard rack does fine. Gear is somewhat sparse and or in suspect features so come with a strong lead head. A 70m rope will get you down from anchors, or 2 60m ropes.


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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Nov 19, 2009

The book has this climb rated at 5.9. I thought that it felt a bit soft for 5.9 so I put it in at .9-
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Oct 17, 2012

as of the date of this posting I left a cam in a horizontal just below the anchor on this route. It's not fixed, just forgotten. If it finds its way back to me I would gladly buy the fine lady/ gentleman a six pack or 22 of something good, and talk to my people in the Karma bureau...