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Climb up past steep hand crack (5.9-) and then head leftward up a nice and moderate groove/crack system. At its top, step awkwardly left to another shallow groove/corner that is a bit dirty. At its top is the crux bulge (place pro in undercling to the left) which will land you on the same ledge as the rappel tree of Original Route
. Traverse left to the tree and belay.
This is the crack just left of big roof (Wilford Roof) on right side of cliff. It is about 25' right of Original Route
. Rap from Original Route's
rappel tree (80').
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Save a 1.5-2" cam (green Camalot) to protect the top move via the undercling, or maybe the yellow alien for the open spot in the main crack. You will want something in up there! The move onto the slab is not hard, but it is psychological!