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Happy Hour Crag
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Teetotaler 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: B. Hansen, R. Lietner, 1989
Page Views: 1,420
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 19, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Mike Amato edging up the arete.
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is pretty fun and quite technical.

Start this climb up and right of Grins, just left of a series of short, right-facing dihedrals and pillars. Climb up some so-so rock to get to an arete with 4 bolts. Clip the first bolt and then work both sides of the arete. The multiple crux moves involve heel-hooking the arete and palm-smearing around it at times. The moves are more insecure than Last Laugh, in my opinion, but pretty fun!


Protection 

4 QDs plus a few runners for the top. There is some distance between the bolts to be considered, but the route seems safe enough.

This is a reasonable top-rope from the anchors up and right of the top of Grins. You may want to rap off instead of lowering, however.

You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.



Photos of Teetotaler Slideshow Add Photo
Carol Kotchek starting into the crux.
Carol Kotchek starting into the crux.
Carol clipping the second bolt.
Carol clipping the second bolt.
At the second bolt and crux.
At the second bolt and crux.
Comments on Teetotaler Add Comment
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By Tamas
Sep 22, 2002

It is a climb well worth doing! Great moves on the crux! Can seem a bit runout (I didn't think so), but the crux is well bolted and the run out parts can be protected. Good hand jammin' before the bolts, great place for pro if needed. Easy to top rope from top of Grins. DO IT!

By Matt Burns
Feb 20, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Easy to toprope, but the long "runout" up to the first bolt is all really easy (5.6 maybe?), and protectable with gear. I'm pretty certain that this is no harder than 10c, the most difficult moves are low near the first two bolts. Still fun, if you're at Happy Hour, throw a rope on it and enjoy.

By Shralpine
From: boulder, co
Nov 3, 2010

Seems like the first bolt is in a pretty bad spot, no? A foot to the right and up would make for a nice clean fall, but what do I know!?