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Teething Biscuit 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,677
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001
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Teething Biscuit.
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Description 

Start in the right-facing dihedral and stem up high. Undercling and reach high for a small pocket. Finish with another reach for a higher pocket. This is a pretty fun sequence of moves.


Protection 

Use the tree on top with a few long slings.

There are two bolts with chains on top of this climb.



Photos of Teething Biscuit Slideshow Add Photo
1. The Scoop, 11. <br />2. Teething Biscuit, 10.
BETA PHOTO: 1. The Scoop, 11.
2. Teething Biscuit, 10.
Teething Biscuit, 5.10.
BETA PHOTO: Teething Biscuit, 5.10.
Dave reaches the pocket/edge.
Dave reaches the pocket/edge.
Comments on Teething Biscuit Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darin Lang
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Cool moves over the roof, and the rare non-grating hand jam in the dihedral below.

By Darin Lang
Mar 21, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

There are now two shiny bolts above this route for TR access.

By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

One of the bolts is an old-style welded affair, and the other is a hair loose. I don't think they're going anywhere. This route is THIN. The rock in this small area chews up your hands something fierce.

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Nov 22, 2007

Solid climb. The undercling and a long reach are a must...or look around the arete for a crimp to the reach.

By Doug Redosh
Nov 14, 2011

Our favorite route of the day on our first visit to Castlewood.
The bolts are good but are below the summit a little bit. One can easily tie off to a tree 10 feet back.