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Routes in Foothill Crag ("The Foot")
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Big Bolts T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Blown Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chummin' for Splatter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Clean Sweep T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Crack, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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From the Ashes S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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I Love L.A. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Magic Feather S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Moon Doggies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ruthless Poodles S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sob Story T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Teetering TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Martin, Powers, Mrazek (1986-87) |
| Page Views: | 1,268 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Feb 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Teetering follows a line of subtle features on the face between Moon Doggies and From the Ashes.
To locate the start, look for a hangerless bolt 15 feet off the ground and above the horizontal break (look carefully, it's hard to see). From this bolt climb straight up over a bulge to a second hangerless bolt (5.10a). Head up and left, following the lowest-angle part of the face (5.10c/d). The moves above the second bolt involve delicate friction and are quite beautiful.
To locate the start, look for a hangerless bolt 15 feet off the ground and above the horizontal break (look carefully, it's hard to see). From this bolt climb straight up over a bulge to a second hangerless bolt (5.10a). Head up and left, following the lowest-angle part of the face (5.10c/d). The moves above the second bolt involve delicate friction and are quite beautiful.
Protection
This route is only a toprope. Even if the 2 protection bolts had hangers, this would be an R/X route.
For the toprope anchor, there are 2 options: (1) tie off several medium-sized sumac bushes or (2) use the fixed anchor on Moon Doggies and place a #1 TCU in a horizontal crack as a directional. When using option 2, be sure to place your directional carefully as failure of the cam and the ensuing swing could be painful.
For the toprope anchor, there are 2 options: (1) tie off several medium-sized sumac bushes or (2) use the fixed anchor on Moon Doggies and place a #1 TCU in a horizontal crack as a directional. When using option 2, be sure to place your directional carefully as failure of the cam and the ensuing swing could be painful.
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