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 ADVANCED
Horse Rampart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AAA TR 
Archery TR 
Between the Cheeks TR 
Debauchery TR 
Horse with No Name T,TR 
Horse, The T,TR 
Lechery T,TR 
Moby Dick T,TR 
Monarch T,TR 
Mother Smucker's Jam T,TR 
Mung T 
Peanut Butter T,TR 
Plethora T 
Primak's Surprise T,TR 
Pullman Car T,TR 
Roger's Roof T,TR 
Scavenger of Sorrow T,TR 
Scuz TR 
Sugar-free Jam T,TR 
Teetering Tower TR 
Teetering Tower Chimney T,TR 
Treachery T,TR 
Via Apia T,TR 
Woger's Woof Wightside TR 
Wolf Dog T,TR 

Teetering Tower 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 209
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Sep 4, 2011

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Description 

A powerful, bouldery start, followed by a fun romp up the NW arete. The crux is clawing your way far enough up the NW corner to get your feet on something good.

Smith and Zimmerman (1970) say that this became a 5.9 when a hold broke.

Location 

Slender tower at the right end of Horse Rampart, to the right of Mother Smuckers.

Protection 

Cam in a horizontal to get you off the ground. After that, not much. There might be one more piece on the North face at mid height?

For the anchor at the top, a couple of cams 1-2 inches, and a couple of medium Offset or Curved nuts. The old bolt might have been necessary in the days of the piton, but with modern gear you can build a good anchor.


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