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Private Pizza Wall
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Teeter Totter 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ben Folsom October 1999
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,164
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Nov 19, 2007

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Teeter Totter

Description 

Climb up a pillar (which moves, climb light and carefully) to a stance. Then climb a #1 camalot sized crack in the corner to a two bolt belay anchor below a roof. During the first ascent, I climbed the left side of the pillar via a difficult offwidth. Since the first ascent I have (and it looks like most people have) climbed the right side of the pillar via thin fingertip jams. The pillar does move and pinches your fingers when you are jamming. Climb light, to avoid having the pillar fall on top of you.

Location 

This route climbs up a pillar to a right facing corner a couple hundred feet to the right of Private Pizza.

Protection 

Cams from small to #1 camalot sized camming units.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2014
By Ben Folsom
Nov 19, 2007

I returned to this route on Nov. 18th 2007 and replaced the anchor bolts, and moved them a few feet higher. I still need to go back and clean up the bolts on the old anchor. I will try to get down there soon and patch the old holes. If the weather is good I will do it this coming weekend.
By Ben Folsom
Nov 26, 2007

As of 11/26/07 the anchors have been replaced and the old anchors patched. The pillar does move, so best to climb light on this route. I don't really worry about it tipping over, having climbed it 5 or 6 times, but if it did tip over, it would for sure kill the climber (and the belayer) so be forewarned. Above the pillar is a great layback crack.
By Brian in SLC
Nov 27, 2007

Ben, or anyone, any idear what the route is to the left of Teeter Totter? It starts with a fingering, kinda mungy lower angle crack which gives way to a wider groove ending a nice bolted anchor on the left (from a flat stance).
By Adam Johnson
From: Park City, UT
Jun 30, 2010

Toward the top took good .75 cams.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 8, 2010

BEWARE!!! I took a fall yesterday from near the top of the pillar and pulled three pieces (red metolius, purple TCU, and nut) landed on my belayer and broke his tib/fib. I had hung and pulled on all three of these pieces but a short fall and probable pillar movement popped them all easily. Luckily Mike Friedrichs and his friends Bruce and Gene were in the area, got cell reception, and assisted us and the Emery County paramedics and sheriff in getting my partner down and to the hospital. Thanks so much for your help - my partner is expected to make a full recovery!!!

I've talked to Ben and the plan is to add bolts next to the pillar as soon as possible and hopefully prevent a repeat experience. Even then as Ben suggests it will definitely be best to "climb light" on this route.
By Ben Folsom
Apr 18, 2011

No, the pillar was always tight against the wall, nothing wider than purple tcu's when we first climbed it. Actually the first time we climbed it I liebacked the wide crack on the left side of the pillar. I would still recommend not climbing this route due to the possibility of the pillar being pulled off onto climber and belayer.
By Landon McBrayer
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 25, 2012

Cool route. We used nuts instead of cams for the piller and bear-hugged our way up. On the way down, I was able to lever the pillar with my nut tool - that's how loose it is. The crack above is fantastic. DON'T FALL!
By BJ Graham
From: Orem, UT
Nov 26, 2012

Please don't add any bolts, this is an awesome climb, probably doesn't deserve the x rating, it's just a little spicy. A little work could be done to the base to stabilize the pillar a little. Otherwise super fun, loved the upper crack
By RockinGal
From: Boulder CO
Mar 17, 2014

We climbed this route yesterday. The pillar doesn't move, though the pro is thin and you may not want to fall on it. Our leader aided the first part. Crack above is good.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Apr 13, 2014

Didn't move on me at all. Many a rock has been placed under the pillar to increase stability. Exciting climbing on the first part leads to easy liebacking. Too bad that upper crack wasn't another 100 ft.