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The Wasteland
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Fire Sermon, The T,S 
Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 
Wasteland, The T 

Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S.Ayer?
Season: Spring, Fall, and Winter
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: Angel Mangual on Apr 8, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Topo with our variation of the 3rd and 4th pitch.

Route Description  

This route is right of Wasteland. The crux will be finding the third and fourth pitches, but the last pitch goes over a roof with two bolts that will make it the definite crux of the entire route for me. This route is great and protects very well. It will give you a great adventure on some moderate climb. I am not sure if we did the correct third and fourth pitch but here is what we did.

1st Pitch (5.10a). It is a combination of trad and sport. It starts up and right from the big tree below the wasteland. Look for the line of bolts just right of a loan tree. It starts with a short crack that will take you to the first bolt. Follow the bolts and go over small roof to two fixed anchors.

2nd Pitch (5.10a). Follow three bolts that will take you to a finger crack that takes good but small pro. Follow the crack and traverse to a single bolt over a bulge to two fix anchors.

3rd Pitch (5.9 PG-13). It is here where the adventure for me begins. There are two bolts and the rest is pro. The first bolt is after the anchors and over the roof. You will end up right of Wasteland chimney. We stayed right and underneath the roof towards a lonely and scary bolt. Keep going up and right from the bolt until a ledge with some ok natural (Chicken head and a small crack) for pro.

4th Pitch (5.8). From the ledge go right and up following the chicken heads. The chicken heads will take you over the anchors of FireSermon. You can use FireSermon anchors or use some of the handful chicken heads to build a natural pro.

5th Pitch (5.10b). This will go over a roof with two bolts. After the roof follow some chicken head to a crack and build a natural anchor on top of Wasteland.

Like Mike said, the third and fourth pitch might be a variation but worth doing. IMO one of the best routes I have done in the East Stronghold for its grade.


Protection 

00 to 2 C3 BD and Doubles .3 to 3 C4 BD



Comments on Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) Add Comment
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By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 8, 2013

Angel and I climbed this over the weekend (or at least part of it).We didn't know where it went after the second pitch so we made it up. Pretty sure we climbed the Sweeney direct route of wasteland to the top of the 4th pitch. 2 pitches of some very spectacular exposed moderate climbing. The loan bolt is half out of the wall and needs replaced. This variation protects very well (aside from the questionable bolt at the crux) and IMO is better climbing than going up the wasteland chimney (at least more exposed). The "ledge" on the 3rd pitch wasn't really a ledge. More like a giant chicken head. From there the Firesermon heads out right and Wasteland goes left but directly above on the roof are the 2 bolts for what we did as a 5th pitch. I think this is the finish for teenage wasteland (I could be wrong). The roof is incredible with 500 feet of air under you.

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 20, 2014

Teenage Wasteland is an enjoyable outing, particularly the first two pitches. My understanding is that the route heads left after the second pitch instead of continuing on Sweeny Direct.

A topo for this route can be downloaded from here:

www.toofasttopos.com/free/

By Angel Mangual
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Apr 11, 2014

Geir you are correct. I changed the title to reflect that this description is for the Sweeny Direct Variation.