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Teenage Area
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Break In Tradition 
Teenage Wasteland 

Teenage Wasteland 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, TR, Alpine, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Harpole- 1984
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: TobinPetty on Jun 24, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Brian preparing for Teenage Wasteland. Note: Brian...

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Description 

Teenage Wasteland starts with a wicked mantle that gains an overhanging finger crack, and ends with big dinner plate holds to the top. The route is sustained and is a serious trad lead as the mantle is unprotected and the crack starts 15 ft above the deck.


Location 

This route is located just left of the cave; easy access for toprope and walkoff.


Protection 

Cams from small to med range. There are no fixed anchors so bring your gear of all sizes for the top.



Photos of Teenage Wasteland Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Shore leading Teenage Wasteland 5.10a/b
Richard Shore leading Teenage Wasteland 5.10a/b
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By Richard Shore
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

No mantle required at the start, it was quite tame. Simply rock up onto a high right foot. Others traverse in from the right to start. I broke a baseball-sized piece of rock off the horizontal dike (good foot) at the crux, but there are enough options so it shouldn't affect the grade. A one-move wonder.

By Kentner
From: Fairbanks, AK
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Mantle required for those of us under 6' tall. Stay in the crack for a challenging, if short, crack climb.