BETA PHOTO: Brian preparing for Teenage Wasteland. Note: Brian...
Add Photo Add Comment Printer View
Teenage Wasteland starts with a wicked mantle that gains an overhanging finger crack, and ends with big dinner plate holds to the top. The route is sustained and is a serious trad lead as the mantle is unprotected and the crack starts 15 ft above the deck.
This route is located just left of the cave; easy access for toprope and walkoff.
Cams from small to med range. There are no fixed anchors so bring your gear of all sizes for the top.
Richard Shore leading Teenage Wasteland 5.10a/b
|By Richard Shore|
Sep 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
No mantle required at the start, it was quite tame. Simply rock up onto a high right foot. Others traverse in from the right to start. I broke a baseball-sized piece of rock off the horizontal dike (good foot) at the crux, but there are enough options so it shouldn't affect the grade. A one-move wonder.
From: Fairbanks, AK
Sep 11, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Mantle required for those of us under 6' tall. Stay in the crack for a challenging, if short, crack climb.