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Teenage Wasteland

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Black T 
Cross Town Traffic Right S 
Easy Slab T 
Route 2 aka Primal Instinct T 
Route 5 T 
Unsorted Routes:

Teenage Wasteland  


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Peterson on Jun 14, 2006
Forecast:
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Clear
63° | 31°
Clear
68° | 31°
Clear
67° | 33°
Clear
61° | 34°
Chance of Rain
48° | 25°
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Description 

A slabby area on the backside of the Super Slab.

The routes don't quite match up with Cowan's guide - I'll use numbers instead.

Getting There 

After passing Tiger Wall, continue straight past the turnoffs to Beginner's Slab and Groove Rock areas. Soon the road from Super Slab rejoins from the left. Turn left here, and park when the road reaches the rocks. Hike down and left - leave the bike trail and walk through a notch to the slabs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Teenage Wasteland
The "Hanging Chad" near the top.

Route 2 aka Primal Instinct 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Gunnison : ... : Teenage Wasteland
As you hike in, you pass an obvious steep line of bolts (maybe Primal Instinct?). Then the ledge narrows and slants down to the slabby area of the rock. The first route there is a very thin crack with a single bolt. We TR'ed this off the anchor on Route 3 - definitely the hardest of the slab routes....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Teenage Wasteland Add Comment
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By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 29, 2007
Just as a historical note, I have seen all of these routes climbed well over 50 times apiece in the '70s. I've climbed most of them all myself at least 1/2 dozen times (got the 5.10 only once). Scotty Gilbert free soloed all of them and worked on the 5.10 route for about a month climbing up and DOWN it with control that blew most of us away. Anyway, they are really fun, smearing, face pitches in a very quiet secluded spot to spend an afternoon. Thanks for putting them up here!
By Aaron Brown
From: Gypsum, CO
Mar 28, 2009
There is also another route in this area above the climbs outlined here. As you come down from the parking area keep an eye out on your left for a very steep, east-facing wall, the route ascends the middle of this face past 2 bolts then steps right to a large ledge. Finish by climbing the aret past a couple more bolts; goes at 5.11ish. There is also a project route that continues straight up the steep face.