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At the mid-way rest.
Last year alone, Access Fund preserved access to 179 areas and opened 7 closed climbing areas. Join or give and MP will match!
According to legend, this was the first route at The North Gym, and this section of the cliffline is named for this route. Established ground-up in October 1985, this was also one of the very first routes at Shelf Road.
This steep slab begins with some intriguing, off-balance liebacking but ends in a brutal slab crux with tiny slopey holds. Not sold yet? This line sports a piton and a 1/4" Star-Drive as well, though both are backed up by 3/8" angle-iron bolts that are only 25-or-so years old. Despite the old-school nature of the climb, the rock is excellent, and the first half is enjoyable and novel.
Lieback & fingerlock up the offset seam. When the seam peters out, make some difficult moves to the horizontal break and a great rest. After a body length of trivial moves, weave desperately between uninspiring edges that all seem to face the wrong way. After the high horizontal break, a few big jugs lead to the top.
8 bolts w/ red, angle-iron hangers, old piton, Star Drive, to 2 bolt ring anchor.
The original Teenage Prostitutes Area. Routes sho...