Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Little on the Ugly Side 
Automotive Supply House 
Baldwin's Chimney 
Banana Hammock 
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) 
Bat Heaven 
Bombs Away aka B52 
Bug Squad 
Captain Nemo 
Central Scrutinizer, The 
Cool Hand Luke 
Deep Throat 
Drunken Redneck Rappellers 
Easy Jam 
Etude For The Left Hand 
Etude For The Right Hand 
Failure to Communicate 
Father 1 
Final Cut, The 
Flare Thee Well 
Flying Buttress 
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated 
Friday the 13th 
Friday the 13th, Part 2 
Ghost Dance 
Grand Traverse, The 
Gravity's Rainbow 
H & H Grunt 
Hamburger Crack 
Harder Than Your Husband 
Hesitation Blues 
In The Dark 
In the Groove 
Jim Jam 
Knee Grinder 
Left Torpedo Tube 
Lower Progressive 
Lower Slot and Upper Slot 
Lower Slot Left 
Lucky You 
Max Factor 
Middle Parallel Space 
Mother 1 
Nemo's Nemesis 
Nemo's Toad 
Nitrogen Narcosis 
October Light 
Old Eyeful 
Par Four 
Petite Tarsalation 
Piton Perch 
Popcorn Farce 
Postman, The 
Republic, The 
Right Parallel Space 
Right Torpedo Tube 
Right Winger 
Sitdown Seam 
Slab Stealer 
Slick and Superficial 
Soak'em In Cider 
Stand and Deliver 
Straight 4 Ward 
Sun Up To Sundown 
Ted's Trot 
Thin Lizzy 
Twinkle Toes 
Upper Progressive 
Upper Slot Left 
Vedajuicer, The 
Vulture Direct 
War Zone 
Where the Sidewalk Ends 
Whipping Boy 
Unsorted Routes:

Ted's Trot 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody, and Andy Ryan, May, 1956 FFA: Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler, July, 1971
Page Views: 1,600
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Jun 20, 2002
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Contemplating his next move.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


This great route is a fairly long pitch for Vedauwoo, and has everything from chimneying to a nice fist/hand crack. Another excellent moderate on the Nautilus.

The climb follow the obvious chimney on the left side of Ted's Trot Block between Cornelius and Lower Slot Left. Climb a fun well protected chimney(I'm not kidding, it sews up with stoppers and aliens) to a big ledge. Above the ledge, climb another chimney with a fun hand crack in it to the small roof. Pull over the roof on bomber fist jams, and grunt up the dihedral to the top. The last 20 feet are the crux.

To descend, rap off the back of Ted's Trot block to the first big ledge. Walk back around this and squeeze down the worm hole - this puts you about 20 feet from your pack.


Stoppers, small to medium cams. Aliens make protecting the initial chimney easier. Save a 3.5 and a 3 camalot for the exit moves, and no wide pieces are needed despite what it looks like from the ground.

Photos of Ted's Trot Slideshow Add Photo
A shot of me (Mike) getting in my second piece during the opening chimney moves.
A shot of me (Mike) getting in my second piece dur...
Andrew Gram squeezing through the opening chimney on Ted's Trot.
Andrew Gram squeezing through the opening chimney ...
Alex resting in the sun.
Alex resting in the sun.
Cool move.
Cool move.
Comments on Ted's Trot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Kullman
Sep 3, 2003

This is an excellent route with varied climbing and is a good way to get introduced to big cracks at Vedauwoo without needing any big gear (just a fist sized piece or two for the top). The crux moves under the roof and out onto the face are great fun, perfect fist jams. I agree with the comments about using Aliens (or equivalent) in the opening chimney moves, smaller gear is what you need. I lugged a #4.5 and #5 Camalot with me and they just got in the way.

By Paul Sampson
Jul 23, 2004

A fun climb with lots of variety.

By Brian in SLC
Dec 18, 2009

Here's some at interesting FA information.

5.5 A1: done 18 May 1956 by Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody and Andy Ryan. "This route bears the remains of the bolting fanatics having at least 11 bolts in a route that has been done with one and for which three are very adequate."

5.7+: done July 1971 by Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler. Notes: "Need no bolts - protect with I-beam & nuts - start climb at bottom & do in 2 short pitches bottom chimney = 5.5"

By jake marlow
From: laramie
Jun 28, 2012

Chimneys kind of suck, but the last 20 feet on this route make it all worth it.