All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Stawamus Chief
> Prow Wall
Teddy Bear's Picnic
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Will Stanhope (first continuous ascent) |
Page Views: | 2,389 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Christopher Barlow on Aug 26, 2014 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Teddy Bear's Picnic is the original hard route up the Prow Wall, tackling a fairly direct and ridiculously exposed line staying quite close to the actual prow feature from bottom to top. All of the pitches are very good climbing, and the two hardest are truly exceptional as they ascend aesthetic features with diverse, athletic, and difficult movement.
Note: This description begins on the tree ledge one pitch above South Gully. This pitch is described as the start of Gravity Bong/Unbearable. It is 10+/11- and often wet, making it fun in a different kind of way.
P1 (12-, 35m): Climb the flare/chimney directly above the bolted anchor that arcs wildly left and spits you out onto bolted face climbing. Continue climbing left to a nice, flat pedestal with a bolted belay. Alternatively, you can traverse left and up along the tree ledge and climb the first pitch of Unbearable to the same pedestal.
P2 (11c, 35m): A diverse and totally awesome pitch. Climb a steep seam, past two bolts, that opens to a finger crack, then up an off-width to a stance. Clip a bolt and layback/squeeze the arete to another stance below the Elevator Shaft. Climb the Shaft; it's really fun. Belay at a ledge with two bolts.
P3 (12-, 25m): Very sustained stemming, fingers/tips jams, laybacking, and hip/shoulder scumming up the right-facing corner (the left side of the shaft). At the top of the corner swing right (Unbearable moves left) under the roof, bolt above your head, to a ledge. Jam/layback up the left-facing corner (making sure to save multiple thin fingers-size cams for this section) to some exposed moves to arrive at "Rancho Relaxo," a very nice belay alcove.
P4 (12d, 28m): A mind-blowing overhanging crack. Climb straight up from the alcove, then traverse right around the corner (be gentle on the stump!) past a bolt to a stance on the exact edge of the prow below the splitter that goes on forever. Start with delicate moves on the hairline seam, then power up the steeper fingers and thin hand jams to a ledge rest. Continue up the crack as it narrows back down, eventually moving left and also using the right facing corner crack, ending at a bolted hanging belay below two lines of bolts.
P5 (13a, 15m): The Changing Corners. Layback tenuously up to the sharp arete. Channel your inner Houdini to get around it, and then power up some more very powerful laybacking and crimping that eases off as you move to another spacious ledge and anchor. This pitch is fully bolted (5 total), and it would be highly advantageous to have the draws already hung, especially a long draw/sling on bolt 3. (There is also a line of bolts directly up the round corner directly above the belay that you can use as an aid escape.)
P6 (11c or 12b, 15m): Climb easily if a bit awkwardly up the corner, clip a bolt below the roof, and do a very stretched out, tenuous move to the arete. Pull around the corner to another bolt and do the hero finish up the face to the top of the wall. The grade of this pitch depends greatly on your wingspan.
From the rim, walk up and climber's right to the 2nd Peak Trail.
Note: This description begins on the tree ledge one pitch above South Gully. This pitch is described as the start of Gravity Bong/Unbearable. It is 10+/11- and often wet, making it fun in a different kind of way.
P1 (12-, 35m): Climb the flare/chimney directly above the bolted anchor that arcs wildly left and spits you out onto bolted face climbing. Continue climbing left to a nice, flat pedestal with a bolted belay. Alternatively, you can traverse left and up along the tree ledge and climb the first pitch of Unbearable to the same pedestal.
P2 (11c, 35m): A diverse and totally awesome pitch. Climb a steep seam, past two bolts, that opens to a finger crack, then up an off-width to a stance. Clip a bolt and layback/squeeze the arete to another stance below the Elevator Shaft. Climb the Shaft; it's really fun. Belay at a ledge with two bolts.
P3 (12-, 25m): Very sustained stemming, fingers/tips jams, laybacking, and hip/shoulder scumming up the right-facing corner (the left side of the shaft). At the top of the corner swing right (Unbearable moves left) under the roof, bolt above your head, to a ledge. Jam/layback up the left-facing corner (making sure to save multiple thin fingers-size cams for this section) to some exposed moves to arrive at "Rancho Relaxo," a very nice belay alcove.
P4 (12d, 28m): A mind-blowing overhanging crack. Climb straight up from the alcove, then traverse right around the corner (be gentle on the stump!) past a bolt to a stance on the exact edge of the prow below the splitter that goes on forever. Start with delicate moves on the hairline seam, then power up the steeper fingers and thin hand jams to a ledge rest. Continue up the crack as it narrows back down, eventually moving left and also using the right facing corner crack, ending at a bolted hanging belay below two lines of bolts.
P5 (13a, 15m): The Changing Corners. Layback tenuously up to the sharp arete. Channel your inner Houdini to get around it, and then power up some more very powerful laybacking and crimping that eases off as you move to another spacious ledge and anchor. This pitch is fully bolted (5 total), and it would be highly advantageous to have the draws already hung, especially a long draw/sling on bolt 3. (There is also a line of bolts directly up the round corner directly above the belay that you can use as an aid escape.)
P6 (11c or 12b, 15m): Climb easily if a bit awkwardly up the corner, clip a bolt below the roof, and do a very stretched out, tenuous move to the arete. Pull around the corner to another bolt and do the hero finish up the face to the top of the wall. The grade of this pitch depends greatly on your wingspan.
From the rim, walk up and climber's right to the 2nd Peak Trail.
Location
Teddy Bear's begins at a bolted belay, below the prominent left-arcing flare/chimney, on the large tree ledge one pitch above the top of South Gully. You can get to this ledge from below per the descriptions of Gravity Bong and Unbearable. You can also hike up the 2nd Peak Trail and rappel the route with a 70m rope, which has multiple advantages. If rappelling in, hike the 2nd Peak Trail to above the ladder. Ascend about 100m more to the first very large flat rock (but still below the 2nd Peak summit). Walk northwest across this flat rock, descend slightly through some trees to a bench above the true edge of the Prow Wall. There are a few different sets of bolts; rap off the brown (rusted?) Metolius rap hangers about 2 meters back from the edge.
0 Comments