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 ADVANCED
The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
Select Route:
Brown Nosing T 
Lorax, The T 
Pumphouse Primer T 
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 
Twist of Fate T 
Ultimate Dihedral T 
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 
Ultimate Finger Crack T 
Ultimate Frisbee T 
Ultimate OW T 
Ultimator, The T 
White Wedding T 
Young Guns T 

Teddy Bear's Picnic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Geikenjoyner, Mark Hawthorne
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Mark Hawthorne trundles the death block on the FA ...

Description 

Climb the excellent jam and lieback corner 100 ft to anchors.

Location 

Located 600ft west of Ultimate Dihedral on the South wall.

Protection 

double set to #3, 1 #4 & #5.


Photos of Teddy Bear's Picnic Slideshow Add Photo
The Knarz on rappel... I believe this is Teddy Bea...
BETA PHOTO: The Knarz on rappel... I believe this is Teddy Bea...
On lead!
On lead!

Comments on Teddy Bear's Picnic Add Comment
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By Rusty Pipe
Jun 13, 2011

Is this the one that is just climber's left of White Wedding? The description for that is really clear. It is directly across from Ultimate Dihedral.

I was wondering if a more clear description for the whereabouts of Teddybear's picnic could be posted here. It seems to me like there is an East and a West facing wall to Pumphouse wash, more than a South or North.

I climbed a 5.8/9 today that is just left of White Wedding. On the East facing wall (West side). Suprisingly great route really. Might be the socalled Teddybear's Picnic. However it was probably 140 feet by the end. There was a bunch of rotten old webbings and a completely rotten fixed rope that we cut off of various trees. Rigged a nice redundant webbing and biner anchor to a sizable ponderosa above where I belayed from, and rapped into a gully to the south. Our doubled over 70 meter rope landed us on a ledge about 40 feet off the ground of the gully and there were two singular bolts about 20 feet apart along that ledge with no other bolts to be seen below or above them. What's going on there? They served us well (not much of a rap station cause neither was doubled). Better, and naturally available is a good sized oak tree that is just a little farther left and above where we landed.

Anyways it seems like there may be a very interesting and awkward second pitch to the route we did, up a seam and through a wild chimney system.
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Jun 26, 2011

no Rusty-
The canyon winds around quite a bit and this section is either sunny (mostly south facing) or shady and (mostly north facing)so exact directions aside lets put it in context of flow. As water moves down canyon; river right holds routes like WW and UFC. UOW, UD and TBP are on canyon left.
I'm not sure what it was you did, but am glad it worked out for ya!
I'll have to look for it next time I'm own there. -M
By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 3, 2012

Just added some pics of what i think is the route... let me know if not... it was a bit dirty at the start, and by "a bit" I mean "a lot"... had some exciting shifting chockstone flakes/but do not let that deter you, I think I "set" them nicely now, definite "pull down, not out" situation... ok, no more "quotes", i had fun.