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Picnic Lunch Wall
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Teddy Bear's Picnic 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 270'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Walan 1990
Page Views: 2,065
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Teddy Bear

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Maybe three stars...

This fine route just keeps getting better as you go.

Pitch 1:
Climb through huge huecos to a bolt just left of the 1st bolt on Honey Pot. Follow the thin slabby face above on little knobs. to an anchor.
5.10c 100'

Pitch 2: Move up and right through some choss to a clean face above. Follow bolts to a cruxy move just below a ledge with an anchor.
5.10 55'

Pitch 3: Move right on beautiful red stone and follow the edge with a lot of air below your feet until you hit the arete and go straight following bolts to an anchor. The anchor is just above a huge partially detached flake/block that should be negotiated with care.
5.10b 60' (can easily be combined with pitch 2)

Rap the route in two single rope rappels.

Location 

right side of the wall just left of Honey Pot.

Protection 

draws and a couple long slings.


Photos of Teddy Bear's Picnic Slideshow Add Photo
Mark finishing the first pitch of Teddy Bear's Pic...
Mark finishing the first pitch of Teddy Bear's Pic...
Pitch 2
Pitch 2

Comments on Teddy Bear's Picnic Add Comment
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By Bryson Slothower
Apr 14, 2006

I'm not sure of the actual length of this route but want to try leading it in one long pitch with a 70m. Think I'll make it?
By Bryson Slothower
May 18, 2006

I linked the 3 pitches with a 70m makes for a great pitch!
By stj
May 7, 2011

The second pitch (link-up of 2 and 3) is one of my favorites in the park. Similar to Revelation, but with some hideous exposure--a key foothold in the crux is right on the edge, where the face cuts away from underneath you. I love it! If it was more convenient, it would be a very popular pitch. I think the consensus rating of 10b seems about right; the first pitch is tough for the 10a it gets in the guidebook, but I don't think it is 10c. First pitch is sustained, insecure knob crawling. Many parties just do the first pitch, and miss out on the great rock above.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Awesome route! Gets sun all morning in the winter. I'd like to try it as one pitch with a 70m. Would be great endurance training.
By another Chad
Oct 29, 2013

I back-cleaned several bolts and used slings on a lot of the clips and the rope drag was still bad. This is one I'd definitely recommend breaking into two pitches (at the first anchor).


Chad
By Pink Thunder
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 4, 2014

The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?
By another Chad
Sep 5, 2014

"The guidebook I got says to rap with two ropes. Is that unnecessary?


You can get down Teddy Bear's Picnic with one rope but you'll have to make more than one rappel.



Chad