This is a wildly thin and difficult climb that requires finesse, power, and endurance.
Figure out how to get onto the first ledge. Peer around the arete and get the first bolt clipped, don't blow it. Follow the bolt line up the right face using thin crimps and the occasional arete slap until you arrive below the first roof. Crux, begin moving up the overhang with very thin hands and marginal foot placements to a dynamic stab for the first decent hand. Make another big throw out to obvious jug ledge and surmount it. Continue up easier ground using both sides of the arete until you reach the bolts on the left side at a ledge.
Walk past the steep climbs until there is a break in the wall. The arete is the furthest most left climb on the right section of the wall. Look for bolts on the right face until a roof section, then the bolts continue up the left face. A 60m is enough to get down. As of 10/12, there were fixed carabiners to lower from.
QD's for 9 bolts to a two bolt anchor.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 26, 2012
Felt like this was a bit of a sandbag after having done several other 5.11 aretes at the RRG. It is possible that a crucial hand has broken off since the FA at the start of the first overhanging section. I added the grade that the guide suggests since it says "if it feels hard you are doing it wrong". I must have been doing it wrong, because it felt more like 11d/11+.
|By Blake Allen Green|
Oct 14, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
5.11d in the current guidebook. Feels like a fair grade. Hero move on the corner is really good.