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Techweeny Buttress

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Techweeny Buttress  


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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jan 1, 2007
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Techweeny Buttress taken from somewhere above the ...

Description 

The first large wall on the left as you descend into Echo Canyon.
If micro edges and clipping bolts are more your style, the clean face in the middle of the formation offers three sport routes.

The top of the formation is seen from the La Luz trail. Upon toping out on the formation follow a solid trail for 30 yards back to the La Luz.

Getting There 

From the crest parking lot start down the La Luz (0.5 miles). Once at the trail junction follow a faint climbers trail south into Echo Canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Techweeny Buttress:
Crackula   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 180'   
Browse More Classics in Techweeny Buttress

Featured Route For Techweeny Buttress
Tamara leaving P1 belay alcove.  Some climbers hea...

Crackula 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Techweeny Buttress
Look for the obvious left facing corner, just north of the clean face. P1: (5.8) Climbs intermittent cracks to a dihedral, followed by a slight bulge. Continue on easy ground and over a few ledges. Belay at a large ledge below a wide crack. (Large gear needed for the belay, #4 Camelot comes in handy, but not necessary)P2: (5.8) Climb up the wide crack, til its possible to step right onto the face. Continue up and right to the corner of a small roof. Use a short crack to pull around th...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Comments on Techweeny Buttress Add Comment
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By Will Vining
Apr 29, 2013
Does anyone have any information about the bolted lines around the corner from Crankenstien? I climbed one of them yesterday (the one on the least steep, most featured face). It was pretty awesome, and when I reached the anchors I discovered there was a second pitch :). It looks like there are at least two (maybe three) cool looking lines up the buttress around the corner from Crankenstien which could form a second pitch for this route.
By Mick S
May 3, 2013
Bolted by Dave Milford 10+ years ago. I can't remember the names, but I believe they are 5.10+/.11-.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
May 3, 2013
I sent a note to David M, asking if he had anything he'd like to post here about the routes.
By David Milford
Aug 31, 2013
Thanks Bill, Mick, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. I will enter full route info for the 2 routes on the back side (East) of Techweenie soon. I only did the upper parts (what he is calling "pitch 2") these can be reached by dropping off the buttress to the East from the top, takes you right to the base of these routes. The bolted line on the very end of the arete is The Flesherizer, 5.11b. The bolted line (bring small - medium stoppers also for the top) a few feet to the right of that is Creature Feature 5.10a. Enjoy.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 6, 2014
As you walk right from Crankenstein:
The first climb on the face just right, with an obvious low old bolt is "Fear of Flying" described in the old Hill book, 5.8A4 (in 1981, anyway, who knows what a modern rating is).
To the right of that is a chossy-looking chimney (5.9+ in old Hill book).
Right of that is a newer bolted 2-pitch M.Beverly line I think he told me was called "Masterblaster". I've heard it's good but haven't climbed it.
I'm not sure where the 2 climbs D.Milford mentions that start half way up are in relation to MB's route.

Feel free to correct / update me, or contact Marc to sort it out.