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Really enjoyable face climbing on tiny edges on steep rock in the same vein as Techweenie. Small edges on cool plates serve up unique movement from straight down pulling, side pulling, and underclinging. Cruise up generous chickenheads and edges to the high first bolt. After that, things get smaller and more interesting past three more bolts. Take some small gear to fish into some tricky placements and keep going to easier ground above the fourth bolt to the anchors.
The D. Jackson book gives this the "R" protection rating where J. Foley does not. Probably is "R" if you don't take tiny gear or are unable to place that gear in some tricky placements.
Techtonics is the middle of three mostly-bolted routes on the Painted Wall/Mosaic Rock Left area. It's the four-bolt route just left of Techweenie.
Four bolts plus tiny supplemental gear. It's possible and very reasonable to clip the first bolt of Techweenie because the first bolt on this route is way up there.
I placed a poor #0 C3 right next to a .3 camalot that was better between bolts 3 and 4. Above the fourth bolt I placed a #000 C3 and a .5 camalot. All this and I still sweated bullets. Two cold shuts for the anchors. Please rappel from these rather than lower through them.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Protects reasonably but some air time is possible if you fall in the wrong places. Bolts protect the majority of the climb. I clipped Techweenie's 1st bolt, and placed a small-med stopper (#7 HB offset?) after bolt 3 but otherwise just clipped bolts. I did run it out at the top but it's after the hard climbing is done (a mid-size cam would be ok there too). Very good climb, like Techweenie.