Technowitch 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | John Duran |
| Season: | Summer |
| Submitted By: | Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006 |
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Hagen moving into the route's crux of steep and sm...
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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A super enduro-fest with a high crux. There's two ways to go about it- the short person version and the long person version. Taller people head right to the hold on Straight On Til Morning and shorter people generally go straight up.
Location This is the first route on the north side of the tower, starting from the left. Shares a start with other routes on the wall.
Protection Lots o' bolts to sport anchor.
Steph working Technowitch.
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Clean falls on Technowitch. This was my favorite...
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Barely sticking the final throw. Photo by Beth C.
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 24, 2006
| This is not really a "super enduro" pitch. Rumplestiltskin 12a (70-80 feet long) which is a three bolt lines right doesn't have as powerful a crux but it is an endurance problem. Techno (50 feet long) only has 20-25 feet of pumpy climbing. The start can be done by starting on the second line of bolts but most people start this route on the first line of bolts on the left side of the wall. It is still a good route and worth doing. |
By WSnyder
Mar 27, 2006
| FYI the FA was done by John Duran |
By Amy Jordan
Mar 17, 2007
| I love this route because of the big dynamic move at the top (well, I'm short...maybe not everyone does a big dynamic move there). Four stars from me. |
By Dave Wachter
Feb 26, 2008
| I agree - the dynamic crux near the top is one of the best sequences on the tower, and the last bit to the anchors is nearly as cool. However, the first 2/3 of the climb is maybe 5.11, with a huge ledge in the middle to have a snooze on. A fun intro to the tower, with good clean falls. 3 stars. |
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Aug 15, 2008
| it is the second route on the right and a favorite 1st 5.12a for many people. |
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