Technosurfing 

The funky bolt with the loose hanger on the bulge has been replaced with a nice fat glue-in recently

Any good Beta for the Crux?

Sorry If I'm behind the times here but,what happend to the ladder?

Anybody else a little spooked by the weathered condition of the in situ draws here?

This climb is a candidate for ClimbTech style steel perma draws.

Anyone have beta for the crux bulge? I can't seem to figure it out/run into someone doing it...

Beta spoiler - Is there a particular spot giving you trouble? Others can probably fine tune the beta, but here is what I remember. After clipping the first bolt in the bulge, you are probably going to reach up to a good smallish hold with your right and dyno if you are short, or backstep and reach to the big flat hold with your left. I immediately get a right toe cam in the vertical crack to stabilize and clip. Match and throw your right heal up by your hands. Crank your right into a high cross-over and pop your left up to a pocket. You can then rock over your foot and pop your right fingers into a slot, camming your fingers a little with your thumb down I think. I can't remember the exact next beta, but you need to relax as much as you can and use your balance as you move up a move or two and then step left onto a shelf. I think I remember it being more grunty if you go left early and mantle, less strenuous but a little scary feeling if you go up another move or two first and step over onto the sloping shelf.

more spoiler- mark's over all spray is good but i'd add a little detail... from the big flat ledge hold where you have hands and heel... up and left there is a down pulling crimp (left hand) and a sidepull (right hand) both are good but small-ish... then up and left to the good pocket (levering a little with a heel-toe is helpful for me on the move to the pocket, heel on ledge and toe against the wall)... from the pocket go straight up to an edge then balance right to the fingerlock hold... as mark said, climbing up the crimp face above then stepping left to the rest ledge is easier than the mantel move (though it is tempting when you are looking at it)...

spoiler Previously I've matched at the big ledge, clipped, then went up and right to a very chalked up good crimp and tried to stand up on the big ledge. It wasn't working... I'll try this beta. Thanks Mark and Lee.

Otey shows you how to do techno....