Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Dave Bingham, 1987
Page Views: 2,987 total · 18/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 21, 2010 · Updates
Admins: GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Locate the climb by identifying three new glue-in bolts in the center of the north face. Scramble up blocks to gain a ledge.  Make face moves in the corner to gain the left side of the horizontal crack.  Hand traverse right placing gear to below the first bolt.  Make technical face moves past several bolts to the crux.  Make very engaging technical moves with few/no foot holds to gain the scoop and clip the final bolt.  

This classic route packs a lot of good climbing in with four bolts. The face above looks blank and intimidating from below, but just enough holds appear to allow passage at a reasonable grade.

Start by scrambling up to the horizontal crack system. Hand traverse to the right across the blank wall (gear) and engage the upper face. The crux comes after the third bolt and is a little heady since the feet disappear. Rap from the anchors above the arete.

Location Suggest change

Just left of the Technicolor arete on the SW corner...

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts and one piece of gear in the 0.5 to 1.5 inch range

Photos

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