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This classic route packs a lot of good climbing in with four bolts. The face above looks blank and intimidating from below, but just enough holds appear to allow passage at a reasonable grade.
Start by scrambling up to the horizontal crack system. Hand traverse to the right across the blank wall (gear) and engage the upper face. The crux comes after the third bolt and is a little heady since the feet disappear. Rap from the anchors above the arete.
Just left of the Technicolor arete on the SW corner...
4 bolts and one piece of gear in the 0.5 to 1.5 inch range
About to get a no hands rest in the giant hueco.
|Comments on Techno-Weenie
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
A BD #2 fits perfectly in the wide pod directly below the 1st bolt. A small cam (.1, .2) can go on either side.
Thought-provoking edging on good holds to a thin no-feet crux with the coolest 4th clip. The final move might blow your mind.