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Torture Machine Area
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Technicolor Tango 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Louie Anderson
Season: all
Page Views: 929
Submitted By: Steve Shiflett on Dec 14, 2010

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Description 

The route starts on a technical slab that requires balance and friction to move up. About 4 more bolts of easy climbing (5.9) lead to the first crux. More easy climbing leads to a high undercling below the last bolt. A short traverse right, a difficult high step, and a long reach to a bad sloper makes up the final cruxy moves.


Location 

Route is located immediately right of Tangerine Dream and left of Vertigo


Protection 

13 bolts to open shuts. May want to use long slings if toproping.



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By Ian McG
Feb 5, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

CONDITION REPORT 

Beware DEATH BLOCK at the top of the route. The mandatory undercling just below the last bolt is a time bomb waiting to happen. fun route otherwise.

By Nick Tunnicliffe
Jan 20, 2014

watch out for the 100 feet of choss... aka the whole route.