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 ADVANCED
Magic Bus
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blonde Dwarf T,TR 
Electric Koolaid S,TR 
Ken Queasy T,S 
Neon Sunset T,S 
Queasy Sunrise S 
Technicolor Sunrise T,S 
Zipperhead T 

Technicolor Sunrise 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: T. & D. Swain, 1993
Page Views: 2,157
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (125)
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BETA PHOTO: Magic Bus

Description 

To find this route first locate Neon Sunset, as described on this site.

From Neon Sunset, walk 3 meters right to a set of thin cracks tending up and right (Zipperhead) then 2 more meters to the left edge of a pyramid like feature.

Climb up on this then straight up the wall passing 4 bolts to reach a fixed anchor. The line is pretty straight and continuous and is a nice climb.

According to the Swain book, this route will take small wires at the base, but I don't recall inspiring protection and instead just bouldered it out with a spot from my belayer. This route might not be the best for a blooming leader.

Protection 

A light rack of small gear can supplement the 4 bolts on this climb, but not terribly well. Expect a minor runout either way.


Photos of Technicolor Sunrise Slideshow Add Photo
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Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
Climbers on Neon Sunset (left) and Technicolor Sun...
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starting out on Technicolor Sunrise
starting out on Technicolor Sunrise
Serica leading Technicolor Sunrise (June 07)
Serica leading Technicolor Sunrise (June 07)

Comments on Technicolor Sunrise Add Comment
Show which comments
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 1, 2007

Bolts appear to be in need of replacement.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Another fun climb! Lead Neon Sunset first then go for the runouts on this one. Woo Hoo!
By Christine Gal
From: lake forest, il
Mar 1, 2009

lead Neon Sunset first, this was an enjoyable (and much shorter) lead to follow it... has some great bomber holds. really nice for someone just starting to lead
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

On 3/3/10, the LVCLC with help from the ASCA replaced 5 pro bolts and 2 anchor bolts on this climb with 1/2" x 2.75" SS 5-piece bolts. The original first pro bolt can be found slightly right to the climb in the scoop- an ancient 3/8" button head. The second bolt was adjusted somewhat higher to accommodate the first bolts more logical location. The anchor has also been equipped with mussy hooks.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jan 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Seems like someone added a fifth bolt to help protect the start. Fun climbing and seemed slightly easier than "Neon Sunset." Not runout, but probably not the best lead for someone breaking into the grade.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 12, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Actually, we moved the first bolt from the alcove to the right onto the face, where people actually start the route.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

really great little climb, well worth doing. get a spot for the start, but its not too bad getting to the first bolt.
By Mtnfly
From: El Segundo, Ca
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Easier than neon sunset. First bolt felt just as high as other bolts on this wall.
By Logan Walters
Jan 16, 2014

I would say easier than neon sunset. Maybe 5.7 after the first bolt. Possible to stick clip though if you feel the need. Super fun face climbing all and all and yes, a bit run out in the middle not be though and very safe.