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 ADVANCED
Central Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Davis-Holland Route T 
Golden Arch 
Good Girls Like Bad Boys S 
Green Drag-on T 
Lovin' Arms T 
Rise and Fall T 
Swim T,S 
Technicians of the Sacred S 
Town Crier T 
Waterway 

Technicians of the Sacred 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Andy DeKlerk
Page Views: 1,279
Submitted By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008

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P1 in morning light

Description 

This is a very cool looking 6 pitch climb up the entire wall that breaches the Golden Arch at its apex arete! I'm only familiar with P1; all pitches, however, are bolted with the exception of P6, which is a 5.8 crack. Some nuts might be useful to supplement the bolts and pins on the upper pitches, but that's merely a conjecture on my part, as are the descriptions of the upper pitches. The lower part of this route and possibly more are likely soaked by the waterfall until summer rolls around.

P1 (.12) climbs an attractive black and white corner to the right of Swim and Green Dragon. A crux down low leads to very continuous steep climbing through bulges and corners to a spacious ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P2 (.11-) is a bolted ramp.

P3 (.12-) is a sparsely bolted low-angled face.

P4 (.12b/c or .11b) either climbs the aforementioned arete straight-on or climbs higher up the corner and traverses back right, then climbs corners above.

P5 (.11) appears to be continuous 5.11 climbing through corners and aretes.

P6 (5.8) is a hand crack that requires natural gear.

I'll post more information when I climb the full route.

Location 

Start in the bolted black and white corner to the right of the waterfall.

Descent appears to be possible via the route, although I don't know what the rappel is like over the Golden Arch; care should be taken with that one because it looks like you could be left hanging in space! Bring two 60m ropes and be prepared to supplement the webbing and hardware. Some of the bolts are likely to be rather old as well, but the ones on the first pitch are solid as of '06.

Protection 

Bolts. Gear for P6 and possible to supplement bolts and/or old fixed pins. Anchors appear fixed; however, bring webbing as many of them are sling belays.


Photos of Technicians of the Sacred Slideshow Add Photo
P1 in the afternoon
P1 in the afternoon

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By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 4, 2014

If the first pitch is skipped by climbing up p1 of Davis-Holland and traversing across Madsen it goes at a fairly do-able 12a. This route deserves some traffic.
By Drewsky
Jul 4, 2014

Did you ever try the 'direct' version of the arete on P4, Mikey? I still haven't been up there but I'm curious.
By Mikey Schaefer
From: Terrebonne, OR
Jul 7, 2014

I still haven't tried the 12c variation. I might be around in september and will check it out then. amazing position!