Start 25' right of Boy's World, by a big pine tree next to the rock. Climb up to a small roof, traverse left, then over the roof (crux) and up a slab to the top. The crux involves a long reach to a thin crack above the roof; easier if you're tall.
7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The route is about 60' long.
The first time I saw this route, I said, "what a waste of bolts." I finally climbed this route the other day and it's actually pretty good. Excellent rock with a very short (height dependent) crux. Probably more like 5.10 rather than 5.11a, but I'm 6'2" with a positive 3" ape index...
Hey, I'm 5'5" and it didn't feel reachy to me! It was a matter of body positioning and balance to be able to step up on a decent edge, then reach over slightly to the left with my right hand to a good horizontal edge. Fun moves, but they're over pretty quickly. Seemed a little easier than 5.11a.
I also thought the rating was a bit soft. Felt like 5.10 to me but what do I know, my first 11a on lead. I can say if you are looking for an ego boost to hit this route. Its only reachy if you don't stand up on the ledge.I thought the bolts were really well placed and I had to wiggle around a bit to find the sequence. But, once you do "the move" welcome to 5.6-ville. Fun route and worth doing!
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Aug 15, 2005 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b
I echo Brenda and Jason's comments; the route seemed more like 10b than 11a the second time I did it. I found it easier than Drop Zone (rated 10b, but maybe harder). The original 11a rating came from the route description on Vaino Kodas' website vainokodas.com/climbing/coroutes/wakeup.html
The key is to keep traversing left on crimpy edges and foot smears until you can move up, snag a good handhold, and establish your feet on good edges below the bulge. If you get your feet high enough, it isn't much of a reach to get over the bulge.
The crux is getting stood up on the wide ledge under the bulge... from there, the next hold is within easy reach. But if you neglect your feet, and that ledge, and try to just move up on the crimpers, you're in for some tough moves.
I was climbing with some friends this weekend, and I got lost trying to find the gully for the Lost Angle (something I do every other time I visit Dream Canyon). And saw this route while hiking back up the gully. So, we went ahead and got on this one. It's a fun little route, well-protected at the crux, and is really worth doing!
My only criticism would be the first bolt seems a little close to the ground.
Seems like this could be a good warm up for the routes further down the rock.