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A more beefed up version of its neighbor Technical Knee-highs
climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.
Option 1: Climb about 60 feet on varnished edges to an anchor below a large roof (5.8).
Option 2: Climb Option 1, but continue past the first anchor clipping one of the chains long. Continue from here and fire through the first crux roof. More technical climbing continues over jugs, edges, and a lie-back crack 3/4's of the way up. Gain a rest and prepare for the final and hard to read bulge. Finish at an anchor 95 feet up. (5.11a)
A large selection of draws, and a few slings. The upper anchor for this route is set back behind a bulge, long runners or a cordelette will help reduce rope drag and abrasion.
By Mary Ellen Man
From: Midvale, UT
May 5, 2014
If you climb this to the first set of anchors it is only 5.9 and a lot of fun.