|Chicken Little Area
Starts just to the right of, and gains the same ledge as Casada Noodle Soup. To spot the route just look up for a bolt line heading between two distinct cracks. Once gaining the initial ledge you can step up and clip the first bolt. A few reachy, semi difficult moves will lead to some easier ones and a smooth face with cracks on either side of the bolt line. Nice route, though one you gain the face it seems to wander back and fourth across the face (contrived)! The route setters intended for the route to head up the center between cracks for the 5.10d grade. Though the cracks are so close to the bolt line, it is very tempting to reach for the large jugs that are part of the crack system. Staying between the cracks would definitely increase the grade to or beyond the 10d listed in the guides (R. Bradshaw and JM Beverly). However, you can easily clip the bolts heading up either crack system.
6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor
|By Larry Earley|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Directly up the bolt line is stiff 10d. The two cracks are tempting and close. I climbed it like most people by wandering. Use both cracks and you get a great 10a/b. Harder than the Egg but only a little. I did it on sight. My friends were very impressed since they didn't see me use the cracks.
|By Rick Bradshaw|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 26, 2007
Walt Wehner and I established this route. We climbed it, named it, and rated it based on the direct line (no crack), which is aesthetic but in retrospect a bit contrived given the proximity of the crack. I think the direct line requires better (more fun) movement, but its fun any way you do it.
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 5, 2008
I recently did this route without using the cracks. Not too contrived if you ask me, just a little bit of self control is needed to keep from reaching out to the crack.
Climbing without the cracks makes for a very fun climb. If you make it using the cracks, go back and try without. Likewise I suppose I'll see how the route feels using the cracks, either way probably worth climbing....