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Technical climbs at the RED
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By ZoeyG
From Evanston, IL
Feb 25, 2013
Me.

Looking for recommendations for crags with good technical sport climbs in the 10-11 range, something that's not jug haul or pumpfest. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!!


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By Andy Hansen
From Longmont, Colorado
Feb 25, 2013
Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl

Suppress the Rage, 12a at Sunnyside Crag. Random Precision, 11b at The Gallery. Happy Trails, 10d at The Gallery. Are just a few off the top of my head. Plenty of others too if you look.


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By Timothy
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Feb 25, 2013
Whitehorse

Yellow Brick Road, 11b


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By Derrick W
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 25, 2013

Thread the Needle 11b (it may actually be called Eye of the Needle)


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 25, 2013

Why do people always call it "the RED". Its weird people always put Red in all caps...

But to answer your question, look in the guidebook there are TONS of slab/technical climbs. If you go to redriverclimbing.com I believe you can even search for climbs based on charecterstics you are looking for.


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By Fleetwood Matt
Feb 25, 2013
Jonah spraying about a sick on-sight

Ruby Slippers and it's neighbors


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By mozeman
Feb 26, 2013

Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions


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By JJNS
Feb 26, 2013

The northern gorge tends to be more vertical and somewhat technical. Check out Eastern Sky Bridge and Funk Rock. Have you climbed at the New?

All Things Considered Is kinda techy and different.


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By carmenh
From Hamburg, Germany
Feb 26, 2013
Psyberpunk, Red River Gorge KY

Psyberpunk at Inner Sanctum (Muir Valley) and Karmic Retribution at the same crag.


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By Dylan Colon
From Eugene, OR
Feb 26, 2013
Me fishing for gear on an onsight of Mung.  Photo by Gokul Gopal.

Hen-ry!, at Left Flank is a good choice. 5.11b slab climbing involving a lot of small iron-ribbon crimps. Definitely not a jug haul by pretty much any standard.

www.mountainproject.com/v/henry/105867536


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By Joseph DeGaetano
From Fayetteville, WV
Feb 26, 2013
STOP your bitching, NRG

Onward to the NRG young man!!! Thar lays the land of all styles of technique. With that said, the first route that comes to mind at the RRG, is The Gift. A bit tougher than what you were looking for at 12a but still worth climbing. Good varied climbing that will keep you thinking all the way to the end.


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By Cocoapuffs 1000
Feb 26, 2013

Dave the Dude (11d) is a must do. There's also All Things Considered (11d), No Place Like Home (11c) and Diamond in the Rough (10c)

If you want to push it, Straightedge (12a) is a great and overlooked climb.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 26, 2013
Gunking

mozeman wrote:
Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions


That is because it is one of the worst climbs in the gorge.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Feb 26, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

Dang, I was all excited to reply here with a big list of techy 10s and 11s, but it looks like folks already got most of them covered. Just to re-state, go to the Northern Region and you'll have as many techy grades as you want, well into the 5.12 range if you want.

A day at Funk Rock would be amazing, with great 10s (Manic Impression, Funkadelic, as well as some great gear routes, too), then some 11s (Eye of the Needle, and "There Goes the Neighborhood" is a bit juggy, but still brilliant), and even a few 12s to push your tech on, like "Go Easy Billy Clyde" and the uber classic "Orange Juice."

Pebble Beach would be good for 10s, too, and if you want to plug some gear, Central Scrutinizer is excellent 5.9 face trad. Not a lot of 11s there, though.


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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Feb 26, 2013
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credits to Kyle Jones and his lucky anti-rain jacket.

JohnWesely wrote:
That is because it is one of the worst climbs in the gorge.


Agreed, Defy is pretty bad, especially considering the muck at the start.

Check out Toxic Avenger at Wall of Denial. Probably one of the best techy 10's at the Red. Diamond in the Rough is another one. Just about all of the Emerald City. What About Bob wall has a bunch of good ones. Areterection is great at the Stadium. No Place Like Home may be the best 11 at the Red. Chica Bonita has a whole wall of good techy 10's and 11's. Same with the Playground. I search out these types of climbs also. They are lots of fun.


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 26, 2013

mozeman wrote:
Any "technical" 10 at the red is going to be somewhat of a jughaul....but surprised noone mentions the 5 star classic to defy the laws of traditions


Probably cause its not really a slab climb or technical. Its vertical pockets with hundreds of holds to choose from so nothing really technical about it except maybe ONE move at the second bolt.

Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???


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By ZoeyG
From Evanston, IL
Feb 26, 2013
Me.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions! Will definitely check out some of them next time! I was at the Gallery the past weekend, saw some vertical/slab lines, but unfortunately they were soaked from melting snow...


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 26, 2013
Gunking

EricSchmidt wrote:
Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???


Everything.


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By todd w
Feb 26, 2013

Random precision (gallery)
Eye of the needle (funk rock)
No place like home (emerald city)
Toxic Avenger (wall of denial)


RedRiverClimbing.com would be a much better place to ask, though


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By todd w
Feb 26, 2013

EricSchmidt wrote:
Also not sure why everyone hates on that climb so much. Its not a 5 star classic but I would at least give it 3 or 4 stars. The start is often wet but other than that whats to hate about it???


Because it's one of the most greased-up and gang-banged climbs at the entire red river gorge. A decent climb, but is it worth that kind of attention? Hell no. But it's next to a couple of 5.7's, so there ya go.


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By todd w
Feb 26, 2013

Joseph DeGaetano wrote:
Onward to the NRG young man!!! Thar lays the land of all styles of technique. With that said, the first route that comes to mind at the RRG, is The Gift. A bit tougher than what you were looking for at 12a but still worth climbing. Good varied climbing that will keep you thinking all the way to the end.


Yeah, the gift is probably the best of anything mentioned here.

But it has a steep top that will make you shit your pants if you're leading it blind.


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 26, 2013

todd w wrote:
Because it's one of the most greased-up and gang-banged climbs at the entire red river gorge. A decent climb, but is it worth that kind of attention? Hell no. But it's next to a couple of 5.7's, so there ya go.


Haha so because its popular that makes it one of the worst climbs in the red? The starting feet are greasy but other than that there is NO grease on it. At a lot of sport crags out west that would be the best climb at the entire crag.

I still dont think its five stars and awesome but its def a decent 5.10


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 26, 2013

JohnWesely wrote:
Everything.


liiiiiike? What do you hate about it? I agree the first 5 feet is usually wet and greasy... But for a 5.10 climb what sucks about the rest? Its just mellow pocket pulling, not sure what there is to hate.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Feb 26, 2013
Gunking

EricSchmidt wrote:
liiiiiike? What do you hate about it? I agree the first 5 feet is usually wet and greasy... But for a 5.10 climb what sucks about the rest? Its just mellow pocket pulling, not sure what there is to hate.


The first half is polished, awkward, and lame. The top is about as generic and lame as is possible.


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By EricSchmidt
Feb 26, 2013

JohnWesely wrote:
The first half is polished, awkward, and lame. The top is about as generic and lame as is possible.


First half is polished? Not really, it must have been a while since you got on it. Its polished to the first bolt then its all good.

The top is generic and lame? Probably cause you are a 12 climber.... To someone breaking into the 10 range I am sure its not "generic". Either way how is an outdoor climb generic?


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By todd w
Feb 26, 2013

It only gets the traffic because of its location and grade, not because it's that great of a climb. It's very middle of the road for the red.

The grease and excess chalk make it go from a so-so climb to a sub par one.


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