Tears of Gaia  5.10b

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Jim Lawyer on Jun 24, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

P1 of Tears of Gaia.

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Description 

Ascends the wall just left of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff. Uncharacteristic of the other routes on the cliff, this one is a face climb.

P1 5.10b G: From the base of the chimney, climb out left on the wall, angling towards the arete to the left. Work up the arete, then back right and follow amazing incut jugs. At the top, step left, then up past two horizontal cracks. Make a big move to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.9 G: Go straight up (bolt), then move left to cracks. Follow these to a fixed anchor. 50'

Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.

Location 

At the base of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff.

Protection 

P1: Draws only. P2: small rack to 1".