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C Chimney Cliff
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Tears of Gaia 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Jim Lawyer on Jun 24, 2012

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P1 of Tears of Gaia.

Description 

Ascends the wall just left of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff. Uncharacteristic of the other routes on the cliff, this one is a face climb.

P1 5.10b G: From the base of the chimney, climb out left on the wall, angling towards the arete to the left. Work up the arete, then back right and follow amazing incut jugs. At the top, step left, then up past two horizontal cracks. Make a big move to a sloped ledge with a fixed anchor. 100'

P2 5.9 G: Go straight up (bolt), then move left to cracks. Follow these to a fixed anchor. 50'

Descent: Rappel with a single 60m rope.

Location 

At the base of the C-shaped chimney in the middle of the cliff.

Protection 

P1: Draws only. P2: small rack to 1".


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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

CONDITION REPORT 
The first pitch is still cleaning up with respect to friable holds. Wear a helmet! The two times I've climbed it I have broken a hold and almost come off as a result. Where the rock is most suspect it's well bolted and the falls are good so just get on it and hope for the best. Do avoid the pillar of choss at about 2/3 height though. This is a great climb with two equally good but different pitches.