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Tears of a Clown S,TR 

Tears of a Clown 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: D. Bohn, B. Scott
Page Views: 1,279
Submitted By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Jan 3, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Beta photo showing line.

Description 

In the new Arthur's Rock Bouldering Guide, this is the TR "project" on the Valhalla Boulder.

I've climbed this route several times, probably first on New Year's Day 2000 if not prior iirc. I had never seen any chalk on it prior to my ascents, so that is why I tentatively put my name as FA, although the route is so prominent that it might have been done previously.

This is an excellent route, that, if it were in BC, would have been bolted years ago. As it is, it is a very worthy top rope.

Start right of center on the slabby green streak, then work left at mid height through the red steaks, then fire straight up the black streaks.

Ed: from FA Ben Scott:
"An amazing face climb on the south face of this prominent block. Start with a technical boulder problem to reach the flake past the second bolt. Catch a rest then continue up the stellar headwall on edges."


Location 

This is located on the huge, obvious boulder just below the final switchbacks to the summit of the Arthur's Rock trail.


Protection 

TR. A long static line and a few pieces of gear.

Per Patrick Kehoe: this now has chain anchors.

Per Ben Scott: 5 bolts + a two bolt chain anchor.



Comments on Tears of a Clown Add Comment
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By Patrick Kehoe
From: Fort Collins
Jun 11, 2012

The route now has chain anchors.

By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 15, 2012

This route is completely bolted now as part of the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative.
5 bolts + a two bolt chain anchor.
Felt like 12- to most repeaters thus far.

More info coming soon....

Ben Scott
nococlimbing.org

By Elijah Flenner
Nov 16, 2012

SWEET! Thanks, Ben.

By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 8, 2013

A little video for anyone that is interested:

By Michael Botkin
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Outstanding route, my first 12 outside, huge thanks for the effort that went into bolting!