Tear in my Beer. 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Paul Ross Patrick Moe .April 4th 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | USBRIT on Apr 9, 2010 |
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A)Aguille du Gieant.1600'5.5R.B)Dugana 800'5.8R.C)...
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Description Starts up the same two easy slab pitches as Dugana.See Topo Photo.
P1)Straight up the slab on its left side passed one bolt at 130' to double anchors. 200' 5.3R
P2). Continue up passed a bolt at 50' by twin insipid cracks to double anchors just left of the narrow slot canyon entrance.200'5.6R
P3) Scramble along the bed of the canyon for 400'.A short 5.7 section is passed where the canyon narrows to a crack (cam) with a bolt at its top for the descent.A few feet passed this one comes to an open light colored slab,the start of..
P4)Climb the center of the slab then over to the right the back left to a steep section to reach a ledge with small bushes and double anchors.Four pro bolts ,ignore 3rd bolt up to the right. 200'5.10R
P5). Follow ramp/slab to the right passed three bolts to a
stance and double anchors.100'5.9R.
P6)Follow slab passed two bolts trending up to the left and double anchors. 100' 5.8+R.
Descent ..Rap the route.Note . These routes are usually led on sight with a Bosch drill on ones back plus other stuff ,so the grade maybe a bit off one way or the other.
Location Hike from the Spotted Walk pull off . About 2.1 miles from I.70 entrance,about 15mins. Located on the north side of the Aguille du Gieant formation.This is in full view from the truck pull off. See topo photo.
Protection A few cams from 1/2" to 2".couple medium stoppers,slings,Two 60m ropes.
First 5.3 pitch 200'
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Paul on the 200' 5.10R pitch.From here the climbin...
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Pat on P5
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Pat topping out
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End of day two...Ready to shed a tear.. Photo Patr...
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