East facing wall with near vertical sport routes, holding edges and funky moves. Lichen exists on this cliff, but will clean up in time. Also, it seemed that all the 1st bolts were very high. The lines here vary, but difficult face climbing is the theme. Expect shade in the afternoon. Routes are as follows, from left to right:
#4 The Greater Wrong Of The Right 5.11b** FA Brandon Wicks/John Rogers 5/99
Follow the approach for The Penguin. Park on the right side of the road, 3.8 miles up canyon. Hike up the north side of the road; hiking up talus slopes until they end, and then crossing through small patches of scrub oak until the next talus field is acquired. There are cairns, so look for them. The approach is hard and hot, but do-able. This is the east-facing wall that is "slightly" up the wall from The Penguin. Expect a hot, dry hike, with lots of loose talus.
An excellent voyage up a deceptive face. Start the route using sharp, positive edges and tricky, techincal climbing. Continue up the thin face to a good rest at the half-way point. Get your bearings and finish the route climbing through the crux near the last two bolts. Lean left off an awkward crack and stay strong. Choose wisely or prepare to log some air time.Continuous climbing with incredible moves! This route allows just enough features to get you to the top. A great, tricky line, this is ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
There are now 4 routes on the wall. I am not sure what the left most route is rated but it sure ain't no 5.9!! The 5.9 is the second route from the left. The only routes with what I would consider "high" first bolts were the 5.9 and 10a.
Also, watch that first bolt on the Penguin (old rusty, spinner barely hanging on in a seam) - it really needs replacing.
i did not feel that the approach was worth the climbing. the rock is dirty and broken in many places. the first bolt on the 5.9 route is high. the belay stance is also unconfortable and unsafe. not any room for a spotter. i pulled a hold out of the wall and experienced my first groundfall ever just below the first bolt on the 5.9. too bad whoever bolted this climb did not consider saftey as a factor on such a dirty, loose climb. i do not suggest visiting the area.
I am curious, with a name like Tear Garden, I expected climb names like "Crystal Mass", "In Search Of My Rose" or perhaps "To Be An Angel Blind." But the only apparent connection here is "Cleanse, Fold, Manipulate" a Skinny Puppy album title. I suppose Cevin Key was part of both projects. Is that the connection or is there some other thing I have missed? The "Feels Like the First Time" title seems a little Foreign on this wall (snicker).
Oh, and I just noticed 'Greater Wrong of the Right,' S.P's last effort, which I found lacking. Maybe because it was more Key and less Ogre?
C.F.M.: Bolt was added to lower section in 2009 per e rock's observation. The rock does have a great deal of lichen on it, and holds have broken off at times. This area will clean up with time, and the brush at the bottom will clear out with additional visitors.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 25, 2012
The climbing here is great - it has cleaned up pretty well. Really interesting thought provoking climbing.