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Slab/arete route with varied climbing enjoyable for the taller climber with some considerable confidence pulling hard slab moves. Also, fingers/tnedons of steel would be helpful.
The crux move is moving left off of a terrible mono divot with a very bad foot match.
This is a great climb for the 5.12 experienced climber to enjoy!
Arete to right of Easily Flakey.
Arete right of Strecth Armstrong.
6 bolts to anchors.
A blue TCU or alien makes you feel better between the last two bolts.
Michael Martin hanging out on the two biggest hold...
Michael Martin getting ready for a super scary man...
Ladd Raine holding on to the crux mono divot on th...
Ladd Raine streching out from the crux mono to the...
Michael Martin just catching the mono divot on thi...
Setting up for the final tricky moves at the top.
|By Jeremy Steck|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 15, 2009
As of 11/09, there are 6 bolts (no pin as indicated in the Cater Guide, 3rd edition. Also, a yellow or green alien protects the section between bolts 5 and 6. Also, a black alien fits perfectly in the obvious slot before the mantle up to the shuts. Awesome line!
|By Joel Longo|
Mar 25, 2010
This is probably one of my favorite climbs at the New. Technical, slabby and some really cool moves.