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The route climbs the crack and dihedral that goes up from the Gemini Bridges Road. Its the northwest face. For some reason this route gets no stars in Bjornstads DRII... I belive it deserves at least a couple as the climbing is interesting. The rock on the last pitch is unique... pockets and edges.
P1. Climb a slab to a pod, then follow a tight crack, mostly fingers, for about 100 feet to a ledge and two bolts. 5.10 with some dirty slab moves up high. Mostly thin gear and hands
P2. Go up through the wide crack in the bulge using fingers, hands, and the odd chimney move... it looks wider than it climbs. The crack lessens in angle, then goes right to a ledge with some funky face moves. Mostly hands size pieces. 5.10+
P3. You might want to break this short pitch into two as it circles the Birds head. Go up on good horizontals to a bolt. Make some face moves on decent rock to a ledge, then follow that right to the back of the birds head. Its on this ledge that you might want set up a belay because of rope drag. You will need wide stuff. Follow the ledge around to the back of the head and climb (little spicey) on pockets and edges to the summit. Get gear in the pockets (it might hold). The pitch is 5.10-.
Rap from the summit to the top of 2, then from there to the ground with 2 60's. The summit anchor leaves a bit to be desired. A nice 1/2 inch bolt and some chain would do wonders for it (I can provide this to you).
On the Gemini Bridges Road where it goes from the Little Valley to Arths Pasture. The hike is not very demanding... I used my bumper as my bottom anchor.
Triples from small alien to hand size, then doubles for fist, then a few large pieces for the top and the odd pod (and bulge). You need slings and extra biners, too.
Matt Pickren on pitch one of Tea Party.
Matt pulling the final moves on pitch two.
Gooneybird. Photo; Todd Gordon
All smiles as pitch one had some good crack climbi...
Fred Knapp, pitch 1.
Me, pitch 3.
|By Matt Pickren|
Apr 19, 2007
I did this route 4/9 and really enjoyed it. The 1st pitch has fun free climbing, and some not fun sandy stuff, the 2nd had some loose stuff, careful of people on the road DIRECTLY below. The 3rd pitch was very fun with exciting climbing. Definitely worth more stars than Eric gives it.
|By J. Thompson|
From: denver, co
Apr 26, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The route can be easily rapped with 1 70M rope. Use every anchor.
A very fun route.
From: Durango, CO
May 9, 2010
A few tricams would work well in the smaller pockets instead of the big cams that typically get place in bad rock.
|By Drew Bedford|
From: Wasatch Back, UT
May 17, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
Bounced a few pebbles off the hood of a jeep while leading the second pitch. Summit anchor has been beefed up (Thanks Sam!). A fun route worth doing if you can handle all the noise, gaping and questions from the 4x4 crew.
|By Jeff Widen|
Oct 11, 2011
Did this yesterday - couple comments: a small ball nut w/screamer could provide a little peace of mind on the face moves at the top of pitches 1 and 2 (we didn't have one). Also - the second pitch is not mostly hands - it's mostly wide, with some sandy, grovelly, groove-type stuff with smallish pro. We only used 1 or 2 hand sized pieces on each pitch.
If you break the last, wandering pitch into two - the belay takes 0.75 to #3 Camalots.
Wish the second pitch were mostly hands, but alas - it's mostly a classic wide/sandy desert grovel!
I agree with Sam - the top rap anchor could use another bolt.