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Lower West Bolton
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Hush, Mama Thrush T 
In the Pines T 
Slip, The T 
Snake Skin Slab T,TR 
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Tea in the Sahara T 
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What's up, doc? T 

Tea in the Sahara 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Guider
Page Views: 1,501
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Aug 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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  • details 

    Just right of large dirty right-facing corner, sits one of Bolton's finest lines, "Tea in the Sahara". At 10b, and over 100 feet long, this mixed gear/bolt protected face/roof climb is a proud lead.

    Thin and thoughtful moves up the face gets to you an imposing roof. The roof, if tackled just right, won't feel too difficult, though if you're mentally taxed, then getting to the next bolt may feel challenging. After a couple more bolts, gain the small left-facing corner protected with gear. A few hard moves protected by one more bolt guard the top out.

    draws (some double length), and a small rack to #1 will suffice for the upper corner.

    Comments on Tea in the Sahara Add Comment
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    By Tim Waystrong
    From: New Hampshire
    Sep 23, 2009

    Isn't there anything you can put for this man?
    By Derek Doucet
    Aug 5, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This route is actually around the corner to the RIGHT of the A wall, not the left as stated in the description above. Some small to mid sized gear is necessary in the right facing corner above the crux roof to avoid a long run out. It was never intended to be a sport route. FA: Mark Guider, though I've heard rumors of an earlier boltless ascent as well.
    By mikejohnson1
    From: Essex Junction, VT
    Apr 26, 2011

    Interesting...There is a bolted climb just to the left of a-minor, next to a dirty right facing corner.

    Tea In Sahara is next to a dirty right facing corner as well.

    As for the one to the left of A-Minor...Does anyone else have information on this? Hopped on it the other day, didn't make it to the 2nd bolt, 10b seems like a pretty solid sandbag.

    Can the administrator clean up this posting?
    By Mark Guider
    Aug 1, 2011

    OK, for the last time, it's Tea in THE Sahara! :0

    You're correct Derek, it was never meant to be a sport route. When I did the FA I placed 2 bolts. Shortly after I added another bolt. I am not responsible for any more than 3.

    After the FA several people claimed to have top roped it, but I never heard of anyone leading it au natural. I'd call the route an"X" without the original 2 bolts.
    By Dan Flynn
    From: MA
    Aug 22, 2011

    Hey all --

    Sorry about the confusion. I've fixed the name and route location. I only climbed at Bolton once, and was writing the description just from memory. If I'm describing the wrong route, please let me know!

    I'm happy to let someone else add more details here as well.
    By Matthew Abbott
    Jun 1, 2012

    Climbed the route yesterday, and man was that upper section after the right facing corner caked in crunchy vegetation. Sure made a thrill getting to the last bolt/ topping out, but entirely worth it. I may rap it next time and brush it down, it would be worth doing. Good times!
    By KrisFiore
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    May 19, 2015

    Uninspiring and not nearly worth the "classic" label that often gets thrown around with this climb. Overall a mediocre climb, even as a lead. Sticks and Stones which is right next door is significantly better IMO.
    By TSluiter
    From: Monkton, VT
    Oct 16, 2015
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    My opinion is the opposite of Kris here, I thought this climb was fantastic. Delicate but still solid face climbing leads to an initial crux. Passing it up more face climbing with great movement until you get to a very intimidating roof (at least for me). Balance-y moves to pull the roof and a little more delicate face climbing to the top. Excellent route, one of my favorite in the Valley.

    Someone recently took out the bolt protecting the roof moves and moved it to a glue-in in a much better location inside the roof. Climb is well protected with bolts, the first bolt is a little high, keeps it spicy.

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