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IRS Wall
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Tax Man T 

Tax Man 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tim Powell and Dan Ahlborn, April 1976
Page Views: 10,788
Submitted By: Steve Juhasz on Jan 3, 2002

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2009 Women of Climbing Nicky Dyal on Tax Man

Description 

Definitely one of the most fun and exciting 5.10 pitches in the park. After a cruxy face start, the steep and excellent crack provides solid gear all the way up and a pump that makes reaching the bolted anchor a good challenge. With its excellent pro and steepness, this route makes a good first 5.10 lead.

Protection 

Full rack, small stoppers to 3.5" cam.


Photos of Tax Man Slideshow Add Photo
Alwyne Butler on Tax Man
Alwyne Butler on Tax Man
Kevin on Taxman
Kevin on Taxman
Taxman
Taxman
Tony Bubb gets started on 'Tax man' (10a) at the I...
Tony Bubb gets started on 'Tax man' (10a) at the I...
"Tax Man", follows the nice crack, photo...
BETA PHOTO: "Tax Man", follows the nice crack, photo...
Tax Man in Joshua Tree
Tax Man in Joshua Tree
Andy just past the crux on Tax Man (5.10a), Joshua...
Andy just past the crux on Tax Man (5.10a), Joshua...
Tony Bubb pays his dues at the crux of Tax Man' (1...
Tony Bubb pays his dues at the crux of Tax Man' (1...
finished tax man
finished tax man
Tony Bubb past the crux of Tax Man' (10a) on the I...
Tony Bubb past the crux of Tax Man' (10a) on the I...
Obi on Tax Man.
Obi on Tax Man.
This was a particularly tough section for me as th...
This was a particularly tough section for me as th...
Leading Taxman
Leading Taxman

Comments on Tax Man Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 4, 2013
By Jamie S.
From: Gold River, CA
Apr 14, 2003

This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.
By Murf
Apr 14, 2003

The IRS wall may be a "fairly long approach" by the standards of the Old Woman or Intersection Rock, but in general, I'd say the approach is actually quite short. For long approaches in JT, see something more along the lines of Super Dome or the Poodle Smasher.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Eats stoppers, will take cams in small sizes. This line can take a #2 or #3 camalot, but it's not crux pro and not necessary. If you can beat the first 4 meters of climbing, you have it made. Pro it up down low and then go for it.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003

I didn't find the bolted anchor Steve mentions in the route description. We ended up rapping off of a smallish shrub/tree to climber's right.
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 10, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Good climbing with thin fingers down low, gear protected face climbing with the odd jam in the middle and hand jams to finish. Bouldery down low with a definite crux and it remains steep and continuous for the duration. Three stars out of five.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Okay so call me a clutz, as far as the approach being no big deal; I broke my ankle on the approach once - had my brand new sticky approach shoes on and they weren't as sticky as I thought. Taped up and did Tax Man, Alf's Arete, Head Over Heals, and Fusion Without Integrity, there was no way I was going to waste such a perfect day. Paid for it later though...
By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I agree this is a stiff 10a - especially compared with other 10a's in the area.

Slipped off leading this, only to slip of again on the same move on TR. Feet seem to be the key.

Super fun climbing.
By Pat W
Aug 16, 2007

J tree classic. Cruxy early, and as all cracks are, size dependant. For big paws (like myself), the start is definately no 10a, just tips. Nonetheless, a beautiful clean crack surrounded by nice patina, with great gear the whole way. 5.10 a/b+.
By Shipp
From: laguna beach, ca
Jan 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

10b/c bottom move and 10a the rest of the way. Or maybe I just bite in cracks nowadays.
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Well worth the approach (hey, we're in JTree here). Beautiful fingerlocks up this steep and classically J-Tree-esque line. Found a BD #4 useful on the upper slot.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Dec 18, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As of 12/15/09 a two bolt anchor with chains was at the top left of this climb.
By Simon Hatfield
From: Oakland, CA
Feb 8, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This Route is going to be on the cover of Randy Vogel's new Guide!

This is probably the most fun route I've done in the park. It has an interesting combination of perfect rock, fingerlocks, tufas, all types of jams and very straightforward gear. You should really climb this if you haven't
By plantmandan
From: Brighton, Co
Apr 21, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I loved this route!!! Great moves and ample pro placements. Climbed it on a Saturday in mid October, and there were no other parties on the whole IRS Wall while Dairy Queen Wall and Hemmingway looked like mosh pits. It couldn't have been sweeter. Absolute classic!
By Canon
Dec 7, 2011

Climbed it today, when I finally got to the base I thought to myself, "Damn, that was a long approach!" Glad I'm not the only Sally here. Bolts and chains in good shape. It is possible to TR, but you'll have to do a few exposed 5.easy moves to get up there. The crux is low, and dont forget about the last couple moves before topping out! Great climb.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Stiff crux (10b/c?) down low then 5.9 the rest of the way. I have sausage fingers and big feet so it was easiest to lieback the crux.
By Drederek
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of the best 10a pitches I've done. Not a good first 5.10 lead but certainly easily protectable. Was a bit stiff onsight but much easier on tr. A solid pinky jam down low and a sinker hand jam with barely enough room for a gold camalot above it were two very memorable parts.
By Dom Horath
Nov 20, 2013

From what I've done at J-tree route seems a wee stiff for 10a but i'd say 10a is pretty fair. it would def be 10a in the valley. can't wait to go back and send this thing. i botched the crux and pulled out a yellow and orange metollius..took a ground fall and shattered my ankle. good lesson to learn. i think my bottom piece walked and the orange metollius was kinda shit. regardless..get after it! such a nice little splitter...sorry for the blood at the base...tried to clean it up.
By Scott Scharfenberg
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

TR'ed this on 11/30/2013. The first 20 or so feet are quite thin, and in my opinion the crux of the climb. My buddy took a few whips on a #00 C3 before getting past that section--definitely gave me faith in small gear.

The climbing was really diverse and all was excellent quality. I'll definitely come back and lead this climb very soon.