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Andy just past the crux on Tax Man (5.10a), Joshua...
Definitely one of the most fun and exciting 5.10 pitches in the park. After a cruxy face start, the steep and excellent crack provides solid gear all the way up and a pump that makes reaching the bolted anchor a good challenge. With its excellent pro and steepness, this route makes a good first 5.10 lead.
Full rack, small stoppers to 3.5" cam.
BETA PHOTO: "Tax Man", follows the nice crack, photo center.
Tony Bubb gets started on 'Tax man' (10a) at the I...
Tony Bubb pays his dues at the crux of Tax Man' (1...
Tony Bubb past the crux of Tax Man' (10a) on the I...
Obi on Tax Man.
This was a particularly tough section for me as th...
2009 Women of Climbing Nicky Dyal on Tax Man
Tax Man in Joshua Tree
finished tax man
Kevin on Taxman
Alwyne Butler on Tax Man
|By Jamie S.|
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2003
This route is super high quality. It's mostly crack moves. A fairly longish approach, unless you possibly come in by the Dairy Queen Wall. It protects very well too, but is a stiff 10a lead. I was able to onsight okay myself.
Apr 14, 2003
The IRS wall may be a "fairly long approach" by the standards of the Old Woman or Intersection Rock, but in general, I'd say the approach is actually quite short. For long approaches in JT, see something more along the lines of Super Dome or the Poodle Smasher.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2003
Eats stoppers, will take cams in small sizes. This line can take a #2 or #3 camalot, but it's not crux pro and not necessary. If you can beat the first 4 meters of climbing, you have it made. Pro it up down low and then go for it.
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003
I didn't find the bolted anchor Steve mentions in the route description. We ended up rapping off of a smallish shrub/tree to climber's right.
|By C Miller|
Nov 10, 2003
Good climbing with thin fingers down low, gear protected face climbing with the odd jam in the middle and hand jams to finish. Bouldery down low with a definite crux and it remains steep and continuous for the duration. Three stars out of five.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 24, 2005
Okay so call me a clutz, as far as the approach being no big deal; I broke my ankle on the approach once - had my brand new sticky approach shoes on and they weren't as sticky as I thought. Taped up and did Tax Man, Alf's Arete, Head Over Heals, and Fusion Without Integrity, there was no way I was going to waste such a perfect day. Paid for it later though...
|By Edward Jenner|
Nov 1, 2006
I agree this is a stiff 10a - especially compared with other 10a's in the area.
Slipped off leading this, only to slip of again on the same move on TR. Feet seem to be the key.
Super fun climbing.
|By Pat W|
Aug 16, 2007
J tree classic. Cruxy early, and as all cracks are, size dependant. For big paws (like myself), the start is definately no 10a, just tips. Nonetheless, a beautiful clean crack surrounded by nice patina, with great gear the whole way. 5.10 a/b+.
From: laguna beach, ca
Jan 23, 2009
10b/c bottom move and 10a the rest of the way. Or maybe I just bite in cracks nowadays.
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
Well worth the approach (hey, we're in JTree here). Beautiful fingerlocks up this steep and classically J-Tree-esque line. Found a BD #4 useful on the upper slot.
|By Jared Spaulding|
From: Central WY
Dec 18, 2009
As of 12/15/09 a two bolt anchor with chains was at the top left of this climb.
|By Simon Hatfield|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Feb 8, 2011
This Route is going to be on the cover of Randy Vogel's new Guide!
This is probably the most fun route I've done in the park. It has an interesting combination of perfect rock, fingerlocks, tufas, all types of jams and very straightforward gear. You should really climb this if you haven't
From: Brighton, Co
Apr 21, 2011
I loved this route!!! Great moves and ample pro placements. Climbed it on a Saturday in mid October, and there were no other parties on the whole IRS Wall while Dairy Queen Wall and Hemmingway looked like mosh pits. It couldn't have been sweeter. Absolute classic!
Dec 7, 2011
Climbed it today, when I finally got to the base I thought to myself, "Damn, that was a long approach!" Glad I'm not the only Sally here. Bolts and chains in good shape. It is possible to TR, but you'll have to do a few exposed 5.easy moves to get up there. The crux is low, and dont forget about the last couple moves before topping out! Great climb.
|By Kevin Dahlstrom|
From: Fort Worth, TX
Jan 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c PG13
Stiff crux (10b/c?) down low then 5.9 the rest of the way. I have sausage fingers and big feet so it was easiest to lieback the crux.
Mar 31, 2012
One of the best 10a pitches I've done. Not a good first 5.10 lead but certainly easily protectable. Was a bit stiff onsight but much easier on tr. A solid pinky jam down low and a sinker hand jam with barely enough room for a gold camalot above it were two very memorable parts.