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Solar Slab
Routes Sorted
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Eclipse This S 
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Tava S 
Up Until Sunrise S 

Tava 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2004.
Page Views: 1,888
Submitted By: Jon Cannon on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (44)
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Almost there! Jon Cannon on the last clip of Tava...

Description 

Smear past two bolts to the crux, a somewhat blank headwall. Sandy smearing up to a glorious hole gets you up to a nice ledge. From the ledge, clip a couple of bolts before the next difficult section: gaining the layback. Ascend small and sandy holds up to the layback. There is cool laybacking/face climbing for about 20 feet to the third challenge, moving past the laybacks onto the upper headwall.

Location 

This lies on the far left end of Solar Slab.

Protection 

6 clips to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Tava Slideshow Add Photo
John getting into the dihedral.
John getting into the dihedral.
Helios.
BETA PHOTO: Helios.
Brian cruisin' the upper section.
Brian cruisin' the upper section.
Brian Rowe starting up Tava.
Brian Rowe starting up Tava.
Chris approaching the dihedral on TR, 2013.
Chris approaching the dihedral on TR, 2013.

Comments on Tava Add Comment
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By Stewart M. Green
Oct 17, 2006

FA by Stewart Green and Brian Shelton, 2004.

This was the first route on Solar Slab. Named Tava, the Ute Indian word for "sun" and often given to Pikes Peak.

Watch for wasps in that good hole!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 27, 2008

This was a really fun climb.... Well worth it. The layback doesn't do you any good after a third of the way up so you have to do face climbing with occasional footholds on the corner. Fun mantle to get on top, too.
By David Regal 1
Nov 10, 2014

Great climb overall! When you think you can't go further, reach higher and you find a good hand hold.

I second watchout for the WASPS! I ignored the first wasp I saw hanging in about 1/2 up in a great hand hold, but there was another great pocket hand hold higher. Once off belay on the on ground, I crushed 2 wasps mating or fighting. Sorry Gaia. I would have left them alone, but they were rolling around, getting agitated in the the slack rope coil, and I was worried about a counterattack.

Five years later, bolt #2 is STILL loose, but no worries because other bolts are solid. For those who care and go beyond, bring a wrench and thank you.

I LOVED the huge flake at top with the variety of layback crack at bottom 1/3 to foot smear at top.