|Sugarloaf, East Face
Taurus is an outstanding thin crack to lieback. The crux comes right off the ground, moving on good locks with smear feet. You can get a good nut, then small but solid gear. Pull the .11b crux to a stance. Then, climb the finger crack up, do some strenuous .10 lieback underclinging out left. Finish up a mantel and walk up the ramp to the chains.
This route was soloed by first ascentionist Mark Hudon in the late 70s, so get after it!
This is just uphill from Farley, and just downhill from The Fracture.
Gear to 2".
From: San Francisco
Mar 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
My first .11 flash on gear.
Fantastic route, technical and smeary crux in the first 20 feet with bomber finger locks in the pods, but the real crux is placing gear.
Crux section takes a medium sized nut and a blue Alien, then shoot for a jug at the good rest 20 feet up.
Second section is sustained .10+, sick liebacking and underclinging. You get an okay rest to place gear when the lieback turns to undercling. After that, forget the gear and shoot for the top before the pump clock runs out.
Being tall makes this route easier. At 6'4", I'd give this route .10+/11-
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 13, 2009
Ditto... this route is fantastic, and sustained. Climbing the crux clean doesn't mean you'll style the rest of the line, as the moves stay decidedly un-trivial till the "jug" holds after the undercling/layback.
Protect the opening moves with a nut and a small cam (I used a purple Metolius Master Cam; it worked splendidly). After that, punch it to a good ledge and get ready for the 10+ business.
|By Monica Jones|
Apr 25, 2010
I toproped this climb once first and then led it. I'm only 5'1'' and thought it was going to be reachy but it wasn't at all. I also placed a purple metolius TCU but placed a green alien in lieu of a nut and then gunned for the jug. Classic climb.
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 12, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
IMO, as good as The Fracture, and not too much harder. The gear is a little bit trickier to place, but solid. After the crux, the difficulty backs off significantly but remains challenging and is super fun.
Having some stretch won't hurt on the lower crux, but it certainly isn't a requirement.
|By Brian Prince|
From: morro bay, ca
May 26, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet route. The crux is really similar to the fracture; it's a big reach for a good fingerlock. But yeah, a good bit harder in my opinion and as the grade suggest. I'd be really interested to see/hear how a shorter person does this. Placing gear from the two side by side fingerlocks before the crux move took some serious effort! After that, yeah, it just makes sense to go to the jug and there was no way I could have stopped if I wanted to.