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Mt. Kinesava
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Cowboy Ridge T 
Tatoween T 

Tatoween 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 15 pitches, 1420', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: joe french, caleb padgett,zach lee... feb 2009
Season: sept-may
Page Views: 2,857
Submitted By: javi on Aug 22, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: bottom up P11 after bolt

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Description 

Tatoween ascends the cracks up the next buttress left of Jolly reen Giant jam crack. this is an excellent and well equiped line that rarely accepts pro bigger than fists. there is a bivy for four atop pitch 5 on a spacious ledge. expect sustained 5.10 climbing interspersed with more challenging cruxes here and there.

15 pitches cruxs @ p1p2p9p12
P1(1&2 120')starts w/ 5.11 stem
P2continues up right to 5.11 fingers flake topped by 2 bolt anchor
P3-(100')5.11 hands for about 50'then 5.10 about 50'
P4-(60') 5.8 to a large tree on right side of ledge
P5(200') shimmy dihedral crack 5.8-5.9 to ledge w 3 trees finish pitch going left up 3rd class terrain to bolts and !bivy ledge for four to the right!
P6 5.10+ ("DesertTower" 2bolts pro) and ("Ghost" 2bolts pro) to 1 bolt
P7 a little after the 5th bolt on 5 switch cracks to the left into the 5.8 stem... finish w 2 bolt anchor
P8 (bottom of 8 to ledge 200')continue up to one bolt pro. then switch cracks to the right
P9 then 5.11 fingers to 5.9 face past 2 bolts pro
to 2 bolt anchor.
P10 traverse ledge right to 1 bolt pull overhang into corner system to thin fingers 5.10+ pass 1 bolt face climb to 2bolt anchor
p11 face climb past 2 bolts to 5.11 finger crack
p12 chimney up to leftward traverse into 5,6 chimney
P13 climb directly of belay into corner or out left to another crack system tha leads to a ledge with 1 bolt to a 5.9 offwidth climb offwidth and chimney to ledge
P14 5.9 chimney to 2 bolt anchor
p15 go left of p14 anchor into wide chimney... 5.10 to large tree (165')


Location 

Mt. Kinesava

Protection 

3ea .5"-3"
2ea 3.5"
1ea 4"-4.5"
2 extra 1-1.5"
2 extra 3"
nuts
2ea 60m ropes (mandatory)


Photos of Tatoween Slideshow Add Photo
Tatoween, route goes up face of pillar left of the...
BETA PHOTO: Tatoween, route goes up face of pillar left of the...
bottom up P2 &P3
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P2 &P3
beginning of P15 (left of 14s anchor bolts) 15 is ...
BETA PHOTO: beginning of P15 (left of 14s anchor bolts) 15 is ...
bottom up P4
bottom up P4
traverse R from belay to a bolt bottom of P10
BETA PHOTO: traverse R from belay to a bolt bottom of P10
rap tree at top of P4, P5 starts here w/ a short s...
BETA PHOTO: rap tree at top of P4, P5 starts here w/ a short s...
top down view of P14 chimney
BETA PHOTO: top down view of P14 chimney
me on biv ledge
me on biv ledge
javi on summit of TATOWEEN!
javi on summit of TATOWEEN!
Garrett Weaver on biv. ledge ~500'
Garrett Weaver on biv. ledge ~500'
bottom up P1
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P1
biv. ledge top of P5. dihedral corner in r of pic....
BETA PHOTO: biv. ledge top of P5. dihedral corner in r of pic....
bottom up P11
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P11
bottom up of P5 to biv ledge
BETA PHOTO: bottom up of P5 to biv ledge
bottom up of P12, traverse left at large block in ...
BETA PHOTO: bottom up of P12, traverse left at large block in ...
bottom up of P6
BETA PHOTO: bottom up of P6
Garrett on top of ledge top of P14
BETA PHOTO: Garrett on top of ledge top of P14
bottom up P7
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P7
garrett weaver in rap tree on summit
garrett weaver in rap tree on summit
bottom up P9?
BETA PHOTO: bottom up P9?
view of biv. at bese of climb
BETA PHOTO: view of biv. at bese of climb
belay at top of P9
BETA PHOTO: belay at top of P9
tatoween
BETA PHOTO: tatoween

Comments on Tatoween Add Comment
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By Caleb Padgett
From: Rockville, utah
Aug 23, 2012

This is a fantastic line. The climbing is varied and sustained. This wall is HOT. We established it over the course of a few weeks in January. When the daytime temps were in the high 50's we were climbing in t-shirts. The bivy ledge is prime and stays much warmed than the canyon below. The last pitch is likely in the 5.10 range, don't get your hopes up thinking you have an easy 5.5 to the top. This route deserves more traffic and is surprisingly clean and (relatively) moderate considering its length and steepness of the wall.
By Ethan Newman
Dec 13, 2012

What a line! Matty VB and I climbed it on 12/13/12. We got away with doubles from blue metolius to BD 3, with one BD 4 and a purple metolius with extra finger sizes (yellow metolius to red metolius). We were able to link p1/2 (extend under roof), p4/5 (with some simuling and a stance belay), p 8/9, an p13/14 (plan for rope drag).

Approach: chinle trail to huber wash, walk up the wash until it starts getting really blocky and steep. Look for cairns on the right, follow them up the steep dirt/sand slope until you're above the springdale band. Then head left, crossing over the wash, and up a spine of dirt towards the second huge buttress left of king's corner. Reverse to descend. About 2-3 hours.

Descent: We did single rope raps from the summit to the top of guidebook p11. Tat around blocks, etc. makes this possible. Be careful on the rap from the top of p11 to the top of p9; there is some rope eating varnish. From there, the raps are pretty good double rope raps.

All in all, a sweet climb.

Also, the rope tat on the summit rap needs to be replaced soon.
By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Feb 4, 2013

Do you need to permit to bivy on this route?

edit: From what I've been able to find no permit is required to bivy on this route. Could someone verify this information?
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Feb 5, 2013

My understanding is that a permit is required for any climbing bivy within Zion National Park, even if the approach starts outside the park.
By jborof
Feb 17, 2013

anybody got a topo?